I can power on the unity with the switch but not off.
I am running one off the firmwares off December.
It can be a firmware problem (When the firmware problem is fix 100% I am going to
update it). With the firmware I now have I can only do 1 time motor detection. After that I need to rewrite the whole firmware.
Switch was working perfect until one day after a ride I can’t turn it off again. So from that point I use the switch off the BMS.
Btw all this is a digital (intern) problem. Nothing with the physical switch itself.
I am also to lazy to take the unity out off the case because all those bullets are properly waterproof
My original switch has been working for ~2500 miles now. I was originally concerned because a few times I would hit the switch, the system wouldn’t boot and start up. I was recommended to hold the switch for a half second longer. This method has been 99% flawless for me.
I did have one weird day when I came back from a morning ride, turned board off, went to ride again later that afternoon, and my board acted like I had never run motor detection. One motor was spinning in the wrong direction, both were stuttering and then would turn slowly. I ran motor detection again, had some issues writing the settings (focbox UI app), eventually the rewrite worked and it hasn’t happened since. This was on older firmware, I believe 2 iterations below current.
I went into the FocBox Tool and adjusted to time to press for turn on to .750 secs. In the app it only goes down to 1.5 seconds. Never had an issue with the switch but I do hope Enertion can provide replacements if it does mechanically fail.
my board acted like I had never run motor detection… some issues writing the settings (focbox UI app)
I have also had this issue once. I have also had issues with the app not writing properly. Sometimes I have to turn off the unity and quit the app fully sometimes just quit the app. I also have intermittent bluetooth cutouts but I suppose a Metr module would fix that
I had an issue where I lost all brakes and power at top speed (22mph, limited via erpm) but that seems to have been an internal issue with my battery pack. I swapped packs and the unity had no issues.
Lastly, I had a bad USB-C port on arrival but Enertion swapped it out for me pretty quickly. (standard warranty, paid return shipping). I thought I’d have to wait for batch three but got it replaced 1.5 months ago.
My switch is acting up. Half the time it doesn’t turn on or off my board. Jeff said they have a few issues with the first version of the switch and have changed some things on the new version.
Interesting! I’ll be keeping tabs on this. Can you try my intermittent fix (holding button down a half secondish longer when turning on) and then @Meeep’s fix if it doesn’t work?
I think it was @taz and me where the 1.5sec press was acting like a timer. So we pressed the switch very shortly and after 1.5sec or whatever time we set the unity shut off - not holding it down for 1.5sec like intended.
Since my switch got unreliable it does work. Now I have to press it the set time.
My switch has a mechanical issue and doesn’t sound like in the beginning anymore. The haptic click is gone.
I’m surprised no one has switched to loopkey for this yet or at least none that I have seen since it’s almost the golden standard. There’s a post in the builders forum how to make a jumper connector to keep the unity on all the time. Downside is you can’t use the kick push to turn it on.
I might have only put about 20 miles on my unity. I can say that full throttle cut outs was very real. I was just lucky I noticed it without being in the board. I also think some people are not realistic in understanding every build is different, so some issues aren’t Unity. Below is an issue I’m having currently. Enertion responded promptly, but I don’t think it’s as simple as their explanation.
It really depends, if it’s the same motor if will probably work but it’s good practice to do anyway
BUT if you are running sensored you must do the detection any time you change the phase wires order, to when plugging a new motor there is a big chance that they won’t be a the right order
Thanks for your reply. I truly appreciate any help.
I ran the guided setup before testing new motor. The detection for both motors is 4.2.
Hoyt St remote.
Jeff from Enertion believes it’s just because of resistance difference with each motor. He believes it’ll have no effect while riding. This is a new issue because I never had this issue before last weekend. Also, it does effect theb ride because the motor kicks in at full throttle , causing the board to get squirrelly. It feels like someone kicked the motor dude if my board.
For me one of the best features of the unity is the standby timeout. It’s great not worrying if I left my board on. This us the main feature that I expect most people wouldn’t want to loose.
Additionally many people with loop key are running with BMS bypass. If you have something that can be accidently left on with bms bypass your just asking to damage your battery.
Just wondering, has anyone with the current firmware had any of the cutout issues that others had in the past? I’ve heard some people might, but haven’t really been able to find much. Enertion is saying that the issue is 100% gone, just want to make sure thats accurate.
but got it replaced 1.5 months ago.
