K got some issues and made a thread but now I found this one. Maybe someone here got any idea.
I plugged in a 4cell lipo that was at 14.xxvolts and it shows up as 21V so clearly the voltage calibration is way off. Is there a way to recalibrate this? I cant seem to find it. Have tried to reflash the unity without any change
Been reading a lot of issues cropping up with unities lately lol.
Mine’s currently in need of repairs, should I:
a) send unity for repairs
b) wait for new tech from Jeff and get that instead
Time is non-relevant here as I won’t be able to put my board together till late April anyway…
I’ve been reading about a lot of issues being fixed thanks to @Deodand that keeps on supporting it. He even said he’ll add HFI in an upcoming FW update. Credit where it’s due.
What connector does the Unity power button use? Doesn’t look like JST-XH.
I think those are JST-PH connectors
Fck! All of the sources I’ve found ship from either HK or CN.
I was gonna offer to ship you some then I noticed you’re not in the US lol
Appreciate the thought mate!
How many times does he have to ask the same question you ask?! Rather paranoid than streetfaced I say.
So on my dual 6374 SK3 setup and current 8S high discharge LiPo pack, if I wanted maximum performance the Unity settings would be:
Battery Amps: 160A (one setting)
Motor Amps: 80A (per motor)
Regen Amps: -50A (because RWD)
Your 6374 can handle 80A?
I think he calls them
I know OEM spec sheets aren’t all that highly regarded around here, but Turnigy says they can do 80A, and the Max6 ESCs I used before could supply 160A each. They never got above luke warm with those ESCs, running BLDC instead of FOC though.
Ah yeah. Probably a little overrated but it has good cooling so that helps. 70A is probably safer but 80A once in awhile won’t do much I don’t think
So back to my Unity current settings question above?
I just had a really, really weird thing happen recently. Focbox UI on neither my PC via USB nor my tablet via Bluetooth would save settings, but both would connect and read fine. Yet somehow FocBox Tool was able to save settings and run detection without issue. But then after rebooting the board after fixing things in FocBox Tool I lost all my settings and it was back to Raptor defaults. I loaded FocBox Tool again and re-ran detection and adjusted all my settings and now its fine again and has been for a week or so.
That’s because they are mostly garbage 
.
For real, motor does are totally an idea rather than a fact. I’ve seen KV ratings as much as 10% off, never within 4KV of the stated value.
Maybe you can help me answer these?
So on my dual 6374 SK3 setup and current 8S high discharge LiPo pack, if I wanted maximum performance the Unity settings would be:
Battery Amps: 160A (one setting)
Motor Amps: 80A (per motor)
Regen Amps: -50A (because RWD)
I would be scared to say it being 8s. The values look good though. How many WH is your 8s pack?
So I noticed a bug trend, whenever I set UART only on the focbox tool, then try to connect to it via bluetooth UI, 50% of the time it would lose it’s settings on the next power up. At first I thought it happened randomly, but then I started noticing a trend because it takes forever to get to the USB port, and I started noticing that shortly after I reassemble the enclosures, there was a chance it would lose motor/battery settings and I have to go on bluetooth to run detection again. After that, it never loses settings until I fuck with it on the focbox tool again.
Also (not sure on this one) that if I leave the app setting as UART + PPM, it does not lose it’s settings.