That’s awesome that the antispark can be replaced!
I don’t @kook is in vain with an added XT-90S. I have on on my battery and it gives me peace of mind that I can unplug the battery or the esc (I have a long extender wire spanning the board between the two enclosures) without having either side spark. When I plug my battery back in the initial rush is taken by the XT-90S I presume so less wear on the Unity
I’ve had it happen too, maybe 5-10 times since I’ve had the Unity for 8+ months. The bright side is a quick reconfig on the side of the road is easy! I set up and change modes via Metr so I wouldn’t be surprised if it starts happening more now that I am constantly messing with settings.
Have anybody had this problem (video).
The board was working just fine, didnt use it for a couple of hourse, then this happened. Was a quick fix with resetting everything on the unity and doing the setup again.
K got some issues and made a thread but now I found this one. Maybe someone here got any idea.
I plugged in a 4cell lipo that was at 14.xxvolts and it shows up as 21V so clearly the voltage calibration is way off. Is there a way to recalibrate this? I cant seem to find it. Have tried to reflash the unity without any change
Been reading a lot of issues cropping up with unities lately lol.
Mine’s currently in need of repairs, should I:
a) send unity for repairs
b) wait for new tech from Jeff and get that instead
Time is non-relevant here as I won’t be able to put my board together till late April anyway…
I’ve been reading about a lot of issues being fixed thanks to @Deodand that keeps on supporting it. He even said he’ll add HFI in an upcoming FW update. Credit where it’s due.
I know OEM spec sheets aren’t all that highly regarded around here, but Turnigy says they can do 80A, and the Max6 ESCs I used before could supply 160A each. They never got above luke warm with those ESCs, running BLDC instead of FOC though.