Focbox Unity issues

Fieeuuuwww :slight_smile:
(still going to wait until after the skate event of tomorrow :sweat_smile:

Not sure if this issue already been posted on this thread.

Direct battery measured 41V, Unity’ HUD showed 34.4v

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@Deodand can you confirm something for me?

Should the unity max motor amp value be per motor or the sum of both? Scale indicates one motor.

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Motor A per motor, Battery A total
120A battery A = 120 A
70 motor A =70+70A

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Thank you for the confirmation.

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@Deodand I know you’re busy with more important things but I wanted to bring up two small things I’ve noticed after using the Unity for a few months.

Firstly, roll to start (RTS) with a Flipsky VX1 (PPM mode) will not connect on the first power on. If I RTS and power on the remote it refuses to connect. If I turn off the Unity and RTS again it will connect. It seems to never want to connect if the first power up is from RTS. It seems to “reset” after 5 minutes and no longer connect on first RTS power up. As long as I power the Unity using the button or RTS after one power cycle it appears to have no issue connecting to the remote.

Secondly, when I change my cutoff end voltage it “chops the percentage off the top” so to say. That is if I have a full charge 100% and wanted to have more conservative settings than the 10s preset, it will never show 100% even though you are fully charged to 42V. I was wondering if there is a way to change the calculation so it “chops the percentage off the bottom” so you can see 100% at full charge with more conservative settings. Perhaps I don’t understand how it works but it’s just a small nitpick since I rely on the Unity app to check battery percentage. It just feels wrong to be fully charged and not have the app show 100%.

Obviously my solutions to these issues are already in practice: Don’t use roll to start and don’t change the battery cutoff settings but if possible I would love to have these investigated :slight_smile:

The flipsky issue is actually related to the remote reciever not the unity so there isn’t a lot I can do about it without changing hardware. Basically the voltage line comes up a bit messy and the reciever gets locked in some kind of weird state.

The voltage/percentage thing is just a few lines of code I can take a look at.

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I figured it might be a flipsky hardware problem since I couldn’t recall an issue with the mini remote. As for the battery percentage, great! Thanks a ton!

I have a problem here. This is the first time I connect my unity to the 12s6p Samsung 30q battery pack. Turning on the power switch unity suddenly explodes, the on/off switch does not work, and the power supply directly starts the esc, which can control the motor. It is the on/off switch failure. Have you ever had the same experience or know where the problem occurred?

Apparently it wasn’t QC passed

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I’m sure it was QC passed. I’d double check no debris got on electronics when you swapped the heatsink. I once blew up a unit when I had a piece of wire stuck to the thermal pad :face_with_hand_over_mouth:

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You’re no longer entitled to bash on vendors or their products. You are now a “valuable friend” remember?

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That’s true, I think it’s supposed to blow up like that. Looking solid enertion :+1:

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Nobody really has enough info to figure out what’s going on with the unit. Even perfect electronics blow up if contaminated with a bit of conductive material in the wrong place. The unity is run through jigs both pre assembly and after the heatsink is installed to check if any contaminants may have compromised the integrity of the unit. It does have a conformal coating on top but that’s really a last line of defense.

Anyway, just need to figure out what went wrong where.

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Show us the battery and cables and where they come out from the battery, did you make it yourself?

This fail is the most common fail for all my unitys. I think I have used or sold ~150 Unitys by now and 6 unitys this happend to, so I gues its still low failure rate.

Also one more place that I have found can blow:

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Yes, this battery is make by my self.

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Nice board :grin::+1:

Thanks for your reply. Before I install the new untity, I hope can know what the problem. Now I understand that it may be that there is a problem with the quality of a small part of the product. So if I determine the voltage is correct, i can install the new unity directly, it is?

Wish me luck.

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my honor😃

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