More, much more.
I’m building a 12s10p for my daily board. Hopefully I can build a long range board next year. Lol
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Niiice. That shall be fantastic 
those 63100s caught my eye but I decided 6384s with the Brian treatment would be a better fit/cost
What a monster.your board will be. Not to mention the range <3
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And more still. I thought my 12s7p of 6.8Ah cells would be enough. But damn how fast 48Ah go by bye sometimes.
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You can help reduce the inductance, by keeping the leads close together or twisting them, but not eliminate it. Reducing the length whenever possible is still important.
Braided phase wiring, though not really needed, would look great though IMO.
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Below what temperature would it be unsafe to store the (board)battery at ?
IMO, below 0°C/32°F. Below this and it can be unsafe to charge li-ion batteries. Most cells are rated down to -20°C but I don’t recommend that. Check the datasheet for the cells you are using to be sure about what the temperature limits are for storage, charging, and use.
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Another interesting hint:
When you have been boarding and come home, wait with charging until your batteries accommodate to the room temperature. It‘s better for the cells.
Unfortunately I can‘t add the source, cause it wouldn’t be in english anyway and I can‘t find it right now…
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Found the data sheet(thanks for the suggestion):
“Samsung 35E 3500mah Cell:
Operating Temperature
(Cell Surface Temperature)
Charge : 0 to 45°C
Discharge : -10 to 60°C
Storage Temperature
1 year : -20~25°C (1*)
3 months : -20~45°C (1*)
1 month : -20~60°C (1*)
Note (1): If the cell is kept as ex-factory status (30% of charge),
The capacity recovery rate is more than 80%.”
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Very good advice! Cells that are warmer than room temp when charged will age a little faster and cells that are too cold, below 0°C/32°F, can become dangerously damaged if charged. Though I don’t think any cells will be below that temp after being used, even at very cold temps.
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Love the new motor mount guards, fit like a glove. Big thanks to Frederic for the design & Skunk for the print job:
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I would also like some axles haha
I have just bought a DIY deck/enclosure. I have noticed the complete comes with a heat sink, is it worth getting one for a unity or not? Cheers!
Yes it is
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I’m worried about drilling/cutting the enclosure now!
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Hahah. Just make sure you have the proper tools n you’ll be alright.
Or you can try placing your unity on a heatsink inside the enclosure. Doing that still helps
Thermal throttling with 8” pneumatics is real
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Always cut inside the lines, never outside or on them and ur good! You can file/sand off exess material easy
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Will the heatsink inside the enclosure make a noticeable difference compared to no heat sink/one outside the inclosure? Does drilling have a large impact on waterproofing? (I won’t be riding in the rain but you never know if you get cut short)
I’d say internal heatsink is better than no heatsink at all lol.
As for water proofing goes. I’d say keep your shit as far away as possible from water but you can always drop some silicone around the edges to keep water out
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Yeah, more thermal mass is preferable to nothing. But active air flow will pull heat out a good bit more. And after riding for some length of time an internal heatsink saturate and no longer be effective.
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