Running this for just short of a few weeks and everything is good. Push to start and timeout are working perfectly, so removed the switch for now. Will report back after a good period of time. AFAIK, @mmaner is still rocking one of more of these successfully.
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I am, litterally no issues.
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Just curious, were you able to verify that auto turn off does NOT turn off the board when it is in use?
It works for my build, but not sure how it reacts to other builds with different battery/motor setups.
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Couple weeks in only, but has not happened for me.
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Ah ok. If the board does not shut-off after an hour of use, then it is working properly.
I also told Flipsky to use a trapezoidal reflow profile instead of a delta reflow profile, hopefully the QC roll improves. Iāve noticed most failures are from the LTC7004ās ground pad not being properly soldered.
The ground planes on their PCBs are super thicc, I donāt doubt they can handle high power.
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Yes, yes. I concur. Exactly my thoughts. I knows stuff.
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Just received the smart switch and wondered if itās better to attach it to the board heatsink side down or up? Iām thinking if the heatsink is attached facing down that the heat wonāt be able to dissipate compared to facing up where heat can escape.
Thereās shrink wrap blocking the heat dissipation anyway, I would say it doesnāt really matter. But Iām still waiting for mine to arriveā¦
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Just FYI, I ordered first week of April and took about 2 weeks and 4 days. Was thinking it would take longer b/c of the covid situation but shipped as normally would have.
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Ordered 2 weeks ago, should be delivered tomorrow 
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Trying to set up my board with the Flipsky Spark Switch and it the switch will only stay on with no ESC connected. If I hold the switch down the ESCās reboot continuously. Any idea what the issue is? The solders are pretty solid.
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How long are you holding the switch down?
Normally a second works without an ESC, with an ESC if I hold it down it continuously reboots and will get the ESC eventually
So, holding the switch down for 0.3s will turn it on, holding it down for 1s will turn it off. Holding it down while itās off continuously will cycle the switch first on, then off, it should remain off thereafter.
If you are doing this and it constantly cycles, this either indicates there is a short circuit on the output or a soldering defect on the antispark PCB.
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Once the light on the switch turns blue then let go or else it resets itselfā¦
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Thanks, Iāll re solder the connections as I doubt there is a short on the ESCās as they are booting and not showing any error signs when connected to a good voltage.
Itās quite difficult to solder 2 wires onto a single terminal on an XT60, this may be where I am going wrong. Anyone got any techniques for this?
Strip both wires an equal amount, tin the wires to ensure no fraying of loose copper strands, cut tinned copper down the middle for both wires, insert into XT60 and add solder is what I usually do, or just use an XT90?
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Guys, do you know if Flipsky Anti-spark switch pro cuts +Vbat or -Vbat? or does it cut both (-) and (+)?
I would like to combine this switch for 2 separated systems and having 2 different power sources but just ācutā the ground so I can use one single anti-spark switch. See below:
I didnt design the āproā switch.
Pretty sure it cuts ground, but the setup you have is not going to work, something (multiple) will explode.
Thats why we high side switch.
The lower voltage system will see reverse polarity and KABOOM.
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