yes, i will pm u
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Have you ended up testing it yet? or too early?
I also agree that good-looking packaging is also a manifestation of brand tonality.
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He didn’t contacted me. So no.
Someone here will get his escs soon and we are told that he will make GoPro video about it.
Very good first impressions with the samples sent from EarkTech!
I didn’t get to push it yet on the bench, but I got to ride my company prototype scooter 14s fast and smooth!!!
9 days shipping from EarkTech, 4 wraps of bubblewrap cardboard box, kits comes with everything.
Positive:
Smooth and powerful FOC
Negative:
Solder your own xt60 and bullets
ADC1 ADC2 Inverted
Will make video on personal 20s scooter when it stops raining.
This might be the vesc we’ve been waiting for, pcb doesn’t look beautiful, but it works!
Thansk alot EarkTech!!!
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Glad you like it, thanks for your support.
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You must have got the first batch of ESCs, because they mentioned that there is an error in the instruction wiring diagram, and ADC1 and ADC2 are interchanged：Fsesc75100 Foc Regular Questions – FLIPSKY
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did anyone get this?
I’m looking to build an ebike with this.
does the 75100 VESC series actually output 100a? or is that the peak rating and the continuous is like 40a?
Thanks!
I ordered one, but it’s not powerful enough for an ebike. It’s ok for scooters though.
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Define not powerful enough. Not powerful enough for you, or the avrege user?
98% of ebikes over here deliver a whopping 250W.
Like meek asked, is the 100A real of just a sales number?.
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That is such shoddy build quality I would never stick this in something I trust my life with.
Those capacitors look like they’re about to fall off
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Agreed…
Terrible soldering and, it appears, nothing is holding those caps in place.
While this particular board may be working now the poor soldering does not inspire confidence that all of the other boards, or even this one, will work well for years. I’m also worried about those caps bouncing around eventually breaking their leads.
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Righto I’ve got mine as well so I’ll post a couple of pictures and observations, but I’ve got nothing to contribute on performance other than these until I’ve had a few weeks to get used to them
First interesting and weird part; the MOSFETs are mounted on a chunky heatsink block so that’s nice. However, TO220 packages usually have their Drain connected to the metal tab, and to avoid shorting these out they’re mounted with a layer of kapton tape, and plastic washers. The screws seem to be metal but I didn’t think too much about it while it was open, it’s on my list of stuff to check when they get opened again (and I can’t find info in the data sheet for these mosfets to see which terminal is connected to the tab).
There’s a decent amount of thermal paste between the back of the heatsink and aluminium extrusion casing, and they’re screwed together. There’s also an NTC mounted pretty well into the heatsink, connected to the PCB here
Speaking of that housing, oh boi. There are clearly slots that the PCB is supposed to slot into, but it’s only slotted in and supported in any substantive way on one side. The other side is screwed in to be fair (as mentioned above, heatsink to housing) so it’s wedged pretty well into the opposing slot but I’d like some other opinions on this.
I don’t personally think the soldering is that bad tbh. I do not like that the bus bars are exposed, it would likely take a pretty catastrophic mechanical problem for them to contact the enclosure, and it is anodised, but it doesn’t feel great. Again, other opinions wanted.
Lastly on the dangling capacitors; it’s not as bad as it looks? It’s not good, but the legs are quite unusually stiff and covered by heatshrink or some sleeve. Also at least one or two of them rest on inductors (can’t remember if it’s all, will check at some point). I was thinking of printing a sleeve or holder of some description, and silicone-ing them down.
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I respectfully disagree: that makes it worse. Stiff legs means more stress on the PCB joints, as well as faster fatigue of the legs themselves. At the very least the caps should be held down with a good-sized gob of silastic each, so the legs aren’t supporting any load, and so there’s no chance of the can abrading against anything else (like those inductors you mentioned, for example).
The FETs only being insulated from the aluminum bar by a piece of Kapton tape is hilariously bad, and a major red flag for me.
The main PCB not even being sized appropriately to fit in the aluminum housing is another big red flag.
I know Flipsky aren’t paragons of quality design, but come on, design fails like this shouldn’t have ever made it past the prototype stage, much less past QC and into the hands of consumers. It’s not a good look even for a low-cost Chinese manufacturer.
Nitpicking stuff like this isn’t asking for the world, but simply base-level competence. You don’t have to spend billions on R&D to realize that basic fuckups like these can sink your product and your brand reputation.
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- Remove end cap
- Pour in epoxy
- ???
- PROFIT!!
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I don’t mind the tape nearly as much as @MysticalDork does as thermal tape can be had just as thin and any of these polymer tapes have a high enough dielectric strength (by far). But seeing this does not inspire confidence in the design and assembly quality.
Is the aluminum block smooth enough though to never penetrate the tape?
A complete fail…
That leaves the one side of the board hanging from the FET legs. For something that will, literally, be subjected to huge amounts of vibration and hundreds of impacts that is completely unacceptable.
They screwed up the design, didn’t beta-test anything, and then decided to bodge it all together and hope not too many units failed before they can get out the second batch…classic cost cutting done at the expense of the customer.
I know, it’s inexpensive and we can’t expect perfection. But this is more (less?) than inexpensive, it’s cheap.
I get it…buyers are the beta testers…SOP for so many companies…but it is still not good to see.
It’s worse than it looks, much worse.
As @MysticalDork mentioned, stiff is bad. Those caps are free to bounce, up to a few mm. When that is done a million times there is an opportunity for metal fatigue to weaken or snap the cap’s legs. Any bending force can concentrate at the joint between the solder bead and the leg. It will not be spread out along the caps legs.
Those caps must be held down. But preferably not on the inductor as they can get quite hot and caps are very heat sensitive.
Just my personal opinion…that ESC is junk and there is no way I would ever use it in a board. I will never judge anyone who buys or uses them though as the cost is low and for many that is the top priority.
I would ask that everyone open their unit up (carefully! don’t damage anything) and look for opportunities to, hopefully, delay any failures by anchoring the caps and PCB and checking the soldering, wiring, etc.
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Sir.
Hope and the spirit of the Unicorn Wizard are holding the capacitors firmly in place. And they’re powered by SPARKLE ELECTRONS.
ahem
I’ll see myself out.
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I stand corrected, thank you! The Unicorn Wizard is always there when you need him. Whoa…I didn’t realize…Sparkle Electrons are the best ones money can buy! 
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