Flipsky 63100 Motor

Correct, less than 2 miles man, they were a replacement for some others I trashed.

I then went to install Maytech open cans, fitted the first then the second rolled of the table and onto the concrete floor and now doesn’t turn properly so I then installed flipsky 6374’s and damn they are probably the nicest motors I’ve used up to now. Very impressed.

Edit - signed in with the wrong account :grimacing:

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I’m a donut

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Bell topper

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I certainly felt like a bell topper. I spent a whole week changing motors on my board. 4 sets of motors in 4 days :see_no_evil:

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i used the 63100 140kv in one of my build(they are all the same atm,flipsky rehouse them) torque is good and strong, and for me is the new meta, i’m using the same motors in another build, bdw i have to see how long bearings last, and also the are too heavy, the next one withc i’m looking to try, are the turbine from xcell

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I’m using 6374’s on a 14s setup, can’t fault the motors, flipsky have up’d their game imo, the new 63100 are battle hardened but at 190kv are too high for me, 130-100kv would be perfect

You can order custom KV from flipsky for 10$ extra.

I would recommend to open yours before you put them on an off-road board.
My Freerchobby 63100 came without battle hardening, even so it was advertised in the specs when I bought them.

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Minimum order of 10 for custom kv

I’ll have to order a circlip tool and 3dprint a puller. It will take a while as tomorrow i’ll officially live at another address, with everything in boxes.
I’ll update my findings on my build thread most likely

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No, reach out on Facebook. They did it for me a month ago no questions asked man. Maybe I just got lucky? Worth a shot though

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Had the same experience going from 5055 190 Kv to 6355 190 Kv keeping everything the same

Completely different response, really want to build a damn dyno to plot all that. :sunglasses:

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all that would be required would be two rollers with motors attached to brake a frame and a way to strap it down. Right?

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My plan is a motor mounted in a load cell to measure the torque, another motor as a load, probably a big one so you can always keep it fixed and just change the one being tested

Initially just manually testing, but with any dual motor ESC and either a custom software or a add on for vesc tool, we can have a completely automated testing setup, for me this would mean:

  • Efficiency map (and everything required prior to that, such as both kinds of losses, power loss,etc)
  • Max torque vs rpm vs wind speed with a given temperature limit
  • Thermal model of the motor

You plug the motor, hit go, and in a few hours (or days maybe) you have everything done automatically

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So, I’ve got a build on the bench with a couple of 63100s

On the Vesc Tool App, the when prompted to choose which motor size to select I would normally select ‘Medium Outrunner <750g’ as this covers the (little) 6374s that I’ve setup before.

The 63100s though weigh in at 1.4kg so it’s logical to assume that I would choose the ‘Large Outrunner <2kg’ right ?

Maybe I did something else wrong, but whilst I did run motor detection using ‘Large’ and everything seemed to go OK, today when I turn the board on (still on the bench and not ridden yet) the Xenith craps out, refuses to turn on and when open the enclosure there’s that distinctive whiff of a burnt circuit. Needless to say the Xenith is now toast, but I have a spare and have hooked everything ready to run the Vesc Tool again.

Battery- 12s10p P42
Esc - Xenith
Motors - 2x 63100
Wheels - 165mm
Gearing 16/72
Remote - Vx1

Would you choose the Large Outrunner option, or stick with Medium ?
Everything seemed OK yesterday, and all connections were good and safely insulated inside.
Any idea what could have caused the Xenith meltdown?

Battery Amps were set at 100A, Regen 25A, Motor A - 70A, Brake A - -40A

Have searched and searched prior to posting but can’t find much on the 63100s, certainly not relavent to this issue anyway.

Cheers
Tony

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Imo yes, 6354’s to 100’s have always detected on medium fine. I can’t remember exactly, but large removes some limits or something.

Way, way to high. Under no* situation can you hit that if you’re running 70A motor. Start battery amps at 50% of your motor amps and go up as you decide high end torque isn’t enough, max battery needed is = motor amps. Yes your pack is capable, but you can never achieve DC power because the vesc cant run at 100% duty cycle. (unless you’ve setup phase weakening which is unlikely)

May have just gotten typical unity bad luck to be honest.

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Thanks mate. I’ll try again next time with those values. Feeling a bit stupid about all this, mainly as i still find the vesc tool confusing compared to the now unsupported Unity app I’d been using for previous builds. Obviously the Xenith isn’t compatible with that app so feel like a total nooib again getting to grips with the Vesc App :man_facepalming::rofl:

Anyone want a Xenith shaped paperweight…?

May yet be fixable buy someone who could repair pcb’s.

It has many many more features, so there can be a lot of distractions, but the wizards are pretty straight forward.

Also didn’t realize your refrence was unity tool. Knowing that the battery amps thing, unity firmware was combined battery amps, now its seperate in vesc tool. so 50A battery vesc tool = 100A battery total or unity tool.

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Basically repeating what @A13XR3 said, with a small addition: there are reports of eating pavement on a unity (xenith) above 80A phase current. I don’t know how universal it is though, I have a vague memory of plenty of people exceeding that

Oh one other thing I remembered: Is this your first time outside the unity app? To make the unity (and stormcore) compatible with VESC tool, VESC tool pretends there are two ESCs communicating over CAN. As a result the unity functions like any other dual ESC, or pair of single ESCs, so if you enter 50A battery it will allow the ESC to draw 50A battery per side. You also need to apply your settings to “both ESCs”, the two should be listed in the box called CAN-Devices in the bottom left

The unity app doesn’t do this, its battery setting is total battery draw and motor settings are applied to both (except the little differences where one motor has a couple percent variation in inductance and resistance). So if you had set 100A batter (already too high) it is actually allowed to draw 200A, hence the deep fried xenith

All in all what would be a decent starting place (but you can and should adjust from there) is Motor 70, Brake 40, battery 35, regen 25, apply these settings, switch to other CAN Device, match and apply again. You’ve got a lot of room to increase the battery regen if you want more high speed braking power because 10 P groups and good cells, and your motors are probably going to be very cool at 70A.

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Thanks for the detailed replies. I only ever built 1x non unity setup, with dual focbox 4 years ago. Everything since has been Unity based using the android app.

I can see what you mean now and I’m totally responsible for frying this Xenith !

Will take and use these ssuggested settings and try not to fry anything else !!