Flexi goes to sleep after 1 hour of inactivity (as expected). Unfortunately, CAN activity does not awake it. When I turn my VESC and DAVEGA on, I’m not getting any Flexi readings, so it’s clearly not responding to CAN.
Connecting the charger does awake it, but it seems to enter the end-of-charge state immediately, so I have to disconnect and reconnect the charger for it to start charging, which is mildly annoying.
Has been on the backlog, as I’ve been figuring out the USB PD-protocol and other stuff. I now have a whiteboard on my wall, which I mean to use for videos, so I can draw and demonstrate easily.
Accidentally also when drilling a hole to the wall, hit an electric conduit and short-circuited some of my apartment wiring, lost power to the whole apartment, as the flat’s distribution board’s fuse blew for my apartment and had to call in an electrician to fix it. Luckily the piece of wiring that I short-circuited was between two very easily accessible junction boxes, so the wire replacement was pretty easy deal. This whole saga was over in about 4 hours from short-circuit to the electrician leaving, fun times.
Did you enable $40 (canWakeUp)?
EDIT2: Does your unit go into the fault state (red led) or does it go to the end-of-charging (blinking green)?
EDIT: Top tip of the day, don’t short circuit your B+ and B- pads when the battery is connected. Below image is from a user and we’re seeing if the unit is salvageable.
Just want to say thanks Simos for the help with trying to salvage this unit! And yeah I would definitely recommend avoiding this stupid careless mistake haha.
Electronics and electrician are two different trade jobs. I have done some wiring with mains stuff, but never with in-wall wiring.
This is a case, as I lost power to my whole apartment, where an experienced tradesman is gonna be able to get me back up and running faster.
For example, I don’t have the correct wire(s) that are run in the walls. Otherwise the process was pretty simple, check for the nearest junction points from the short-circuit spot, mark the cables, remove the old cables, pull in new cables in and check that everything works.
Sounds as tho you told the electrician were you were drilling. The majority of people will out right Lie and say thay have not drilled, nailed, or hung a picture. spend a couple of hours looking then as soo as you fined the fault say o yes I did do a hole there yesterday about the same time.
I call it stupid tax. Tempted to add it on top of the bill as well as the extra time it takes to fined.
In the uk all cables are
Horizontally or vertically from any wiring accessory .
With in 150mm of any corner including wall the ceiling corners
I did tell him where I drilled and actually helped him remove some door framing to see where the conduit was going. I just wanted to get it fixed and done with.
This flat was built in the 50s for military personal use and the walls are cement. Now I would expect something of better wiring standard in a modern building, but those usually have drywall/plasterboard walls with a cavity behind it maybe filled with insulation. This flat’s walls are solid cement, there is no “backspace” or innerwall to speak off.
Funny story though, when I was looking at this apartment with my dad, he mentioned that back in the days of his military conscription training days, he had come to this particular flat to get his sergeant, as it was used to house military faculty personnel back when this area was used for an active garrison and military training.
Did also get the invoice for the electrician, 176,20€. I’ll just take my L on this one and learn for the future, just happy to have full power back on.
I think there will be couple of changes for the 1.0 HW release of the Lite hereby named “Lite 12S”, the original HWs 0.5-1< will be referred to as “OG Lite” henceforth. Charging Mosfets and the shunt resistor will be upgraded to slightly increase the charging current capability, I’d say 12Amps at least and I’ll first need to verify what I’d give the unit as an official rating with testing. I will also add the TVS protection diode to the charger side port for the ESD-protection.
Apart from that I don’t really have other changes planned, so this would be a good time, if somebody has relevant feedback on the design, to give some.
Yeah I think you’re right the connector acted as a fuse and the board was salvageable. The slight sparking when trying to reconnect was unsettling at first (video below if anyone has seen the same thing when hooking up +BAT / -BAT), but I believe I successfully restored it with some help from @SimosMCmuffin. I was able to solder on a small jumper where a trace was blown and separate/hold everything in place with some super glue and silicone. After connecting the battery, there appeared to be no issues after the initial sparking. Current draw was normal. I checked via USB after hooking up the balance wires and readings all look normal. No faults reporting and my status readout is as follows:
Only thing i can think of is if you solder a header on the temp sencer pads there’s a resistor slightly in the way. (Not that it was designed to be a header there).
Optional upgrade for Heat sink for bleed resistors and mosfets but I’m not sure how usefull that is in reality.
I’m looking for 16s BMS that would be supported by VESC, not much amps needed (about 30amp will be max what motor can take, so maybe 40amp bms would be planty)
Can any one advice?
Plan to get flipsky fsesc 75v 50a (120amp max) esc base on vesc6
