Do you mean the heat shrink not covering the joint 100%?
Or do I not know something I should be doing? (That’s the best feedback :D)
1 Like
I’ve asked @DerelictRobot the same thing dozens of times lol
(If you ever thought about it^)
I’ll add more, I just have more pms with Andrew than appendages, so it’s hard to track them down
4 Likes
As for the connector I saw, it’s the blue circle.
I’ve also circled things I would use silicone or hotglue to help prevent water ingress in white. Hopefully you won’t just make one cut out for the motor leads 
Thanks for the tips!
Haha, thought yes. But I figured: bad idea. If you look closely, I actually used it once here - to bundle the voltmeter excess wire to then easier hot glue it. ^^
That was related to making internals water resistant, right?
Blue circle:
Re-soldering it just to improve the heat shrink seems like overkill. Is hot glue a legit enough solution?
Yeah, I planned on still cutting a second hole for the phase wires. Didn’t do it yet because I thought of running it single until I messed around with that stator.
The charge port has a rubber seal. But I guess it might come loose. Good catch. Will hot glue that too.
2 Likes
In general:
When would you use hot glue vs JB Weld?
1 Like
Yep
As for if hot glue is sufficient enough… Mehhhh
It’s fine as long as the glued piece wont vibrate or flex and remove the glue. If that’s the case then it’s Silicone time
I like using jbweld for my enclosures to prevent ingress. I think it supports my loopkey, ports and buttons much better than hotglue. I use hotglue for securing connections like ppm, Uart, can, and sensors
1 Like
Electronics grade Neutral cure silicone > *
I buy the tube version of this stuff:
Clear Electronic Grade Silicone - 2.8 oz Squeeze Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063U2RT8/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_J-38DbQYTV7BF
3 Likes
+1 on silicone.
I was forced to run my evo through a pretty large puddle (or slam into a full family of pedestrians complete with golden retriever…honesty I just cared about the dogs safety)
When I got home I took everything apart to check, not a drop got in but I had used a shit ton of silicone on every spot I thought could be a problem
6 Likes
Yep. I’ve gone completely submerged, as in water coming over the top of my deck. Sensor cables shorted and kicked errors, but it kept going and got me home.
Granted, that did allow some water in upon inspection, but my enclosure was missing 3 bolts at the time because I’m a lazy savage. It could have been catastrophic, as opposed to very little water penetration. Nothing came through any silicone sealed port.
4 Likes
Yea mine was quite as bad as that. I still have that shitty tiller enclosure on it so there are a few gaps around the deck area but I’ve used plenty of weather stripping to seal that up too.
1 Like
Nice thread 
where on earth did you get that Drang deck for $30!?
1 Like
Did you test this nickel for purity? It could very well be stainless if it was blowing out like that
1 Like
based on the welds that @SeanHacker was yiking about, looks like you had a bit too much heat on the welder (too high joules / watt seconds set ) and / or not enough pressure on the nickel. When the positive makes contact with the nickel but not good contact with the cell top, it asplodes.
however, i’ve blown a few holes in nickel myself while learning to weld and as long as its not in danger of shorting on its own cell it shouldn’t be a big deal. just make absolutely sure you don’t have molten metal laying around inside the cell top and nothing stupid is happening with the heat shrink on the cell. But next time definitely use insulator rings.
and don’t try to fix weld blast holes with solder. Once the nickel has been altered by the heat solder won’t stick to it. Its better to tuna-can peel it off with needle nose pliers, grind the weld points down on the cell top with a dremel grinding wheel (using almost no pressure, let the speed do the work) and start over.
also, i love the idea of actually using that key switch but i can tell you don’t have room for it in the enclosure really. I’d like to try biometrics at some point.
5 Likes
likely wasn’t stainless, maybe nickel plated steel… stainless can’t be soldered to in my experience of buying nickel and not actually getting nickel. stainless is a motherfucker because it looks right, welds amazing, and then you can’t fucking solder anything to it. I have about 2 pounds of what i beleive to be stainless on a roll if anyone wants it for fixing the trim on thier trailer or making chinese armor costumes.
2 Likes
Sure, I should have been less specific. I just mean could be ‘not pure nickel or nickel plated steel’.
That stuff welds ‘so well’ that it tends to blow holes out at higher power, where pure nickel doesn’t. I just ran into that exact situation last year, was like: wtf? Turned down power and it stopped blowing through.
Then sodium showed it to be all made of lies.
1 Like
and stainless will pass the salt test with ease, making it even more sinister. ooooooh that guy on ebay… really got my goat. Lost like $300 bucks on a roll of “good deal pure nickel for battery build many amps”
then i tried hitting up a legit supplier for the govt/mil complex and they gave me the run around then vanished.
I’m still looking for legit 25mm x .15 nickel.
3 Likes
I can get you.
13 Likes
Boom! Jeff saving the day again!!
I kinda want some too!
4 Likes
Water will go in through those cables. Even if the cables are sealed externally, water can go in from the inside of the cable around the wires.
5 Likes
Whats the best thing to do for that? I guess embed the female connector in the enclosure so its solid metal?
1 Like