Well, to be fair I did not buy it separately. I got someone’s beat up long board collection with material worth 4 complete decks. Fixed and sold one, traded another for a focbox 1.6, and based on what I have left I estimate the deck to have cost me like $30.
Does anyone have a similar Drang build?
Did not. Figured that even nickel plated steel can carry the 20A that this ESC can handle.
But I’ll make sure to make a test before using this stuff again. I bet you are right.
I think you’re right.
Might it also be that pos/neg terminals of the cells need different joules? Kinda felt like that while welding.
Yeah, I did my best on this.
You bet! No more cutting fishpaper strips…
Great to know, thank you!!
I love the idea, too, but i ditched it because: If someone is going to steal your board, they won’t have the remote, so they will have to carry it anyways.
A finger-print on-switch would actually be awesome.
Imagine you combine it with bkb’s gps tracker, and somehow extend it to send you a copy of the thief’s fingerprint along with the gps location, without the thief knowing what just happened. mind blown.
why not make some art?
Please, I have been looking for this, too!!
Critics, don’t lose your shit. Learning is happening here. … but please do chime in prn. 
@b264 as I’m taking premade CNC’D mounts and hubs to get blinged out just bc I want to feel pretty for once, I love gritty builds that embody the essence of “fuck it, I’ll do my way and if it works it fucking works”. Irony noted.
Final sprint:
Last issue:
Wait, what? Why is the clamp on the wheel side of the mount?
Crappy pic, but this is how it’s supposed to be mounted;
Exactly, and seal well from the inside, be careful that most females have a hole on the bottom for the air to get out when you plug it in, and if the resin or whatever you use is thin enough it will get inside and ruin it
The water creeping through inside the wires is real, took two years, but killed the esc on my rc car, the inside was flooded, and the only way for it to get was that
Yeah wut lol
Haha, that explains!
Thanks for the explanation!
Well, I got these as-is for a real fair kit price and help from a friend to get started from zero. He glued them onto the trucks a good while back.
If the chains don’t work, I will try hammering them off, but then I would also have to grind the trucks more to move them up more… whatever works.
Turns out that these actually came factory mounted like this, straight from 中国.
But it is actually a non-issue because the pulley fits around them.
Really? Wow, that’s just 
I wouldn’t buy from that seller again.
So, for anyone thinking of using chains: You will need mounts that are adjustable (distance to wheel wise). They do save a ton of hangar space though!
My mounts were non-adjustable. The chain was a little too short, so that I would have had to move the motor 3mm closer. Adding a link would have made it too loose. So I did the rational thing and cut into the mount to make it adjustable.
It was a battle between steel mount and dremel. Steel won. I was out of suited tipps 2.5 holes into the fight.
A last time I tried belt drive.
And oh wonder. I found a combo that worked. Sketch wheels and pulley attachment and just 10mm belt but it’s solid and works.
As a final touch I heat shrink wrapped all individual phase connections, added a heat shrink over the bundle and then still a protective sleeve.
Build finished.
qed
We should go on a ride bro! I want to try out this Phoenix of yours 
Yes, let’s!
It is actually way more powerful than I anticipated… definitely on par with a boosted board. I was expecting it to be way more soft.
Right on bro! I am already at home but anytime you have sometime during the day il come meet you on campus!
Boosted runs something like a 5146 motor I think? They’re super weak motors and way conservative on the settings
Their v1 had quite small ones, but v2 got a bit bigger ones. I have tried both.
They are nothing compared to what people ride here, but they have plenty torque and are not bad at all. Just overpriced.
