I have heard of stainless steel being passed off as nickel…
won’t rust in saltwater, good luck soldering with it (edited)
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I don’t do water tests, just the grinder spark test.
Yes. I left it in there for weeks. It’s defiantly not normal behavior. I think @longhairedboy had a similar issue with a roll of 25 mm nickel that he bought. Maybe it’s stainless steel?
… did it weld?
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Yes. It surprisingly was super easy to weld and the welds on it were craze strong.
… but you can always spot weld real nickel with a dab of solder on it?
Edit, nvm, the ampacity
I made a 12s3p out of those $.99 hg6. Really nice. No sag great short trip pack.
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Does anyone have an extra 12s d140?
I would gladly take it 
Pics or it didn’t happen
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Ha, I actually didnt take pics this time. Third pack so figured i was good on this one. Have to ride some time. Has great torque even with 6355’s and my small body.
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Actually yes you can and it works pretty damned well if you’re stuck doing that.
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We are using the wrong solder. Apparently you can solder, braze, and weld stainless to copper. A very cool article from a group of guys into DIY’ing alcohol in the basement 
@Arzamenable @M.Hboards
https://learntomoonshine.com/how-to-solder-braze-and-weld-stainless-steel-to-copper
How To Solder Stainless Steel To Copper
If you choose to solder your components together a common plumbing solder containing 95% Tin 5% Antimony will do the job just fine. You can also use Lincon Electric Solder Stay-Bright Kit With Flux that is 95% Tin and 5% Silver for better results. Both solders will have a melting point of 230°C /450°F and can be heated with a simple propane or Mapp gas torch. You will need to thoroughly clean both pieces and apply a coating of flux to all surfaces to be soldered.
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haha, what, you afraid of a little sparkle sparkle?
A regular soldering iron gets to 450, no problem. A good one more, prolly.
That donkey-kong soldering dildo you have prolly goes to a thousand degrees, lol
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A little razzle dazzle? Ok, I see your angle.
doing up that 12s8p as we speak
these used cells that @Dog is selling are actually testing out to have totally decent capacity, if you can live with the sag. Higher p groups required. perfect for a charge n ride.
edit:
I’m getting over 14 amp-hours on the 8p groups from 3.57v to 4.05v
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Come take my spotwelder. I don’t work till next PM
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Also, I have A second ride and charge enclosure you can have