When I get over my Trypophobia I’ll probably pick up a set 
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This, times ten. Sometimes builds take a LONG time and you need a build that’s ready for final assembly next week.
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New build video!
This took us a long time to make haha
Please like, comment and subscribe if you enjoyed it,
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With me waiting for the product reviews and stuck inside due to the bad weather. I wrote a little blog post on the topic of DIY vs Prebuilt, I know it has been done before, but this is just my $0.2. 
https://www.esk8supply.shop/post/the-ultimate-question-in-the-esk8-community-diy-vs-prebuilt
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Why does the 12S3P battery on your store only have a BMS rated for 40A discharge? 30Q cells can do 20A, a bit silly that the BMS doesn’t allow 60A to use the battery to its full potential.
Off the top of my head, to extend the life of the battery. Not sure that’s silly.
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I would leave that up to the customer/user to decide.
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It is up to the customer, the can buy it or not. It’s likely that someone buying a 40a pack isn’t interested in changing the BMS but they can if they want.
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It is up for you to decide, just splice the negative past the BMS and to bypass it
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That beats the point of having a discharge capable BMS. Let’s just say I was thinking about potentially buying that pack (and making a YT video to try and earn 50% back), but needing to buy my own BMS / anti-spark in addition to the one already there just isn’t cost-effective. Not to mention that the pack might be built to just handle 40A across the series connections anyway, meaning it might not be safe to bypass the BMS.
Other EU vendors offer 60A BMSes on their 3P batteries. Just saying.
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I totally understand,
The reason we chose a 45A** bms was due to space constraints (to be able to fit inside the cf deck) and 30q is rated at 15a (I know that they are capable of 20a), we just wanted to be safer and as @mmaner said, extend the life of the cells.
You can also bypass the bms but if you really want/ feel the need to.
What do you mean by buying your own antispark?
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If you bypass the BMS, you can no longer use its e-switch to turn the board on and off. This means you need to use either a loop key, or an anti-spark switch, which in total cost more than just getting a powerful enough discharge-capable BMS in the first place.
Space constraints are a legitimate reason for going with 40A though, thank you for responding.
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Oh I see, our bms doesn’t come with an eswitch first of all.
Our es controller does have a switch, which makes it unnecessary for a new antispark. If not, loop keys are dirt cheap 
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seeing that you are making battery packs, I assume that you are confident about the cells you are using being genuine.
Would you be interested in selling bare cells? or Maybe even welded P groups like 4P or 5P?
I am looking for options to source genuine cells and ship to countries other than in the EU and the US
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We outsource the battery building to a manufacturer that makes esk8/ escooter batteries professionally, they are certified so we are confident about the authenticity of the cells. We can talk over dm about getting you some bare cells, let me know where to ship to and how much you want. 
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I will send you a PM then, thanks
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This is a very, very good idea. The market is missing this option.
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Unfortunately for retailers it’s also a very good way to get unjustly sued through inexperienced builders causing battery fires. People seem to think welding cells is the hard part of assembling a battery.
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Yeah, I told @Tamatoa to pm me for bare cells. We are not going to offer welded cells any time soon. Sorry guys