éPok | Loaded Poke | Caliber II 50 | HK sk8 6364 190kv | 10s3p 30Q | HK sk8 ESC

EDIT: Given it a name… éPok, because it is an electric Poke, and because it has taken an epoch to make. Works on so many levels.

This has been a long one - I started a build thread on the old forum, which didn’t gain much interest, but I am still interested in other people’s builds, and find myself back on the build train in the current state of lockdown, so thought I’d migrate/add to it.

TLDR; 2 years in the making…still isn’t made (quite). Picture story below.

The DIY community is an incredible thing. I have spent way too many hours poring over other peoples builds. The innovation and imagination of people around the world is incredible, and the sharing nature is something else. So, thank you to everyone who has helped me on the way (without necessarily knowing).

The story so far:

  • Spring 2018 decided it would be fun/a challenge/a more gradual financial outlay to DIY an electric skateboard having found the eskate.builders forum. Started buying parts, had a long battery build phase.
  • Spring 2019 bought a house which needed more work than the skateboard did…really ramped up the DIY ability and confidence
  • Spring 2020 found myself with more time at home and a few roadblocks in the house renovations, so now getting to finish the skateboard. Also had a knee reconstruction in 2019 so now I might actually also be allowed to ride it

Pictures! I won’t bring them all over from the old post… just the pertinent ones.

Phase 1 - planning:
image

Phase 2 - battery build. Please offer thoughts. This is a copy of Whitepony’s spud battery. I would use more fishpaper to wrap the P groups now, but given my board is not a flexy deck I think it will be fine.
Obviously battery building is serious business, so I took a lot of time with all these parts.

Nickel strips - I left a bit long so they rest on top of the cells, so as not to get a corner in between the terminals and cause a short.




Folding the battery like a butterfly, the nickel in the middle and braided copper on the outside to provide the series connections. Nickel tabs of different lengths on the negative terminals wherever possible for balance wires - different lengths so I can route the wires without crossing until off the battery pack. Kapton tape and fishpaper under any folds to reduce the chance of shorts.

BMS on solid fishpaper-board on top (to minimise length) and the whole thing shrink wrapped - battery is just about done! Weighing in at 1.67kg complete.

Wire the thing up and a first attempt at the Vesc tool…and a huge amount of excitement as it works!

No enclosure though…so, a year later… I sent an message on the 'gram to @BigBen who gave me some great pointers on fibreglassing enclosures. Armed with this, and some guidance from other friends with a bit of experience I decided to use a mixture of techniques. Deciding the first one would be a sacrificial lamb proof of concept as my foam cutter hasn’t arrived, I did some testing.

I wanted the design of the board to show through a bit, so traced it on the twill weave fibreglass before laying up. I used a ghetto vacuum bagging approach from the old forum, with no bleeder layer as that hadn’t arrived either…knowing I’d get some iffy results for science…



It fits! The design works really well (I think) so I am going to repeat with more care and attention as soon as I have all the parts. To test though, I taped the enclosure to the deck and took it for a spin, just up and down the road as I haven’t charged the battery up due to it not being in use…

And that is where I am now! Hopefully some people will find this interesting/amusing/entertaining. All I know is, within 50m of riding something I have built from scratch, I am hooked.

Thoughts and feedback are all very welcome.

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Proof that is has been outside…

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Excellent, good to see you got something working!

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Thanks! How do you usually cut the enclosure sides and fit?

I’m looking at M4 threaded inserts with rubber washers to allow a little flex, and a junior hacksaw/sanding to get the edges smooth.

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The key is to keep dust down! (and protect yourself)
I use a band saw with extraction and finish up with a sander and extraction. Grinder with a thin disk can work but is messy, dremel and a vacuum, multi tool with carborundum blade is a good one. You could work with a hack saw blade carefully?

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Unfortunately I haven’t got a bandsaw and can’t visit my parents, who have literally every tool imaginable. Including a drill press, annoyingly as I want to use that for the fixings.

A multitool I have, I’ll look out for a suitable blade. Thanks again :+1:

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You will get away with any fine serrated blade but it won’t last long. The diamond or carborundum blades last forever. If you can, use a vacuum.

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It looks like you didn’t use fishpaper between adjacent parallel groups in the battery… You DEFINITELY should add that before it catches fire and your new house is gone D:

This is true, I didn’t. As I said, if I did this again, I would do this. However, I am not sure I have the option of taking it all apart given it is spot welded and soldered together? Would others advise this?

It wasn’t as common practice when I research and made my battery, unfortunately. I have hot glue between all cells which holds P groups apart, prevents movement though is flexible. I believe this should be enough on a board that isn’t built for bone shaking terrain and high speeds?

If you can guarantee the battery doesn’t shake, then okay…

I would still keep that thing in a garage / location a sudden battery fire can’t touch anything else. That pink casing on the cells comes off real easy…

I can’t guarantee that, it is true. It will live in my garage mostly I should think, though wasn’t sure about the temperature fluctuation.

You have raised concerns I already had, given the change in techniques that I have seen since I made this - has anyone else got any thoughts? Is it feasible to break a battery down and start again?

People have done it – a dremel seems to be the easiest way to clean off cells, although in your case all you need to do is unsolder the copper braid, wrap the packs in fishpaper, and then put on new braid.

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What I might be able to do is take off the glue between groups and slide some fishpaper in between, then stick it down on the cell to prevent it working its way out?

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If you are able to do that, then YES! :smiley:

I will almost certainly give this a go. A little bit of inconvenience now is worth it in the long run, thank you for your input. I was so pleased with my heatshrink, as well…

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Ahahahah Epok is a brand of snuff, great name you chose there. Great product as well :wink:

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@rusins - better?

I’ve taken the shrink wrap off, unstuck a few parts, (very carefully) removed the glue from between the 3P packs and replaced with fishpaper. The cell wrap didn’t get pulled taking the glue off as I used some alcohol to soften it up first.

I feel more comfortable for doing it, so thanks.

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Looks good! Do you have something like fishpaper or plastic between the BMS and the cells?

Most definitely. I have a solid fish-board that the separately shrink-wrapped BMS sits on. The amount of exposed metal on that thing alarmed me.

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Can you or anyone else advise techniques for the ends of the shrink wrap? Top and bottom of the photo, i haven’t worked out a way to make it neat. And don’t judge the glass table and awful carpet, they’re on the house reno list.