I thought the real OG drives were the 75kv rough surface…? Someone mind correcting my ass please
One side rattles like hell because of the loose lock but. I tried adding shims but there’s still a lot of play
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They are in this thread somewhere. Forgot who took them apart
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Found it: eLofty Direct Drive Discussions-read before buying
But this is for the old drives. Are the new drives or smooth drives different?
Found it for new drives:
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Why those two?
how did you lose the bolts with the wheel right up against it?
Would superglue work?
And can you link your tool design files?
thanks
Do It however you wish, if you fully understand the concept of what we’re trying to achieve, Vaya Con Dios!
My point in swapping motors, I was already taking both of the hangers anyway to “battle harden the cans” with epoxy, I’d inspect the motor bearings and the motor lock nut while they’re apart and it’s easy peasy to just swap the drives at this point.
again, do it as you wish, I haven’t fully checked into the properties of “super-glue” for this application.
I’ll try and get the files uploaded next week, right now I’m prepping and packing for another adventure in baja.
aren’t they the most reliable right now? I might be wrong.
Man hearing all these cans coming apart. I’m so new to Direct Drive I’m like …wtf.
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Anyone correct me if I’m wrong but they are reliable only because they have higher limits than a typical VESC/ESC (yes they’re also rather well built too 
). If you stick within the parameter of a vesc/esc and also give consideration to possible spikes, most ESC/VESC are reliable. I’ve been using ones by TB and a dual by @Esk8supply without issue but that’s partially due to me not pushing the edge.
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Wanted to post that I’ve ridden my DDs the entire week and as far as the cans unscrewing, no problem here. I have been slowly getting more aggressive with them too but for me they’re holding up.
Things to note:
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I’ve definitely underestimated the battery drain/sag. From a fully charged 12s2p from TB, on full throttle runs at 60psi on 6" pneumies, I sag all the way into 20%. This is probably due to a combination of old battery, “low” psi, and pneumies in general
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No alarming heat from cans. I ride at least 3 miles daily on my commute to and from work and also up and down parking garages, usually at full throttle. The motors are usually just slightly warm to the touch. I know I can push them harder
but my limitation currently is ESC and to a degree battery. I do have a 10s4p sitting around and a 12s4p in the works though…
Some other thoughts, driving the motors harder will produce more heat. Has anyone considered heatsink fins on the cans? Seems like a way to drive them even harder 
Anything people here want me to try or test?
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Which version do you have? 72kv or 58kv?
Just realized something. I threw my specs into the esk8calc and it’s saying my speed should be somewhere around 40mph. That seems wrong as it definitely doesn’t feel like 40mph top speed. Maybe my battery sags too much and doesn’t reach full potential? Is there a way to measure KV from the vesc tool? I’d like to take a look.
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or probably not enough power/torque on pnummies/old battery/vesc settings to reach that
You can put 20" tires on it and have the calculator say 100mph, but that doesn’t mean it’d work
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That’s what I figured, whelp, time for some new batteries 
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I increased pressure from 60psi to 65psi-70ps (pumped to 72 but subsequent psi test showed between 65 and 70) I feel a little more of the road buzz but definitely better as far as roll resistance goes. Faster acceleration and top speed. Motors feel slightly cooler after runs and same with tires. Braking now leaves more to be desired due to lowered resistance and faster top speed. I’m a little uncomfortable with braking distance. Definitely no stopping on a dime. 
I blew out 2 bearings (outside) on one of the motors. The first time, bearing blew out during the ride but I didn’t notice till charging because it rode like normal on just one bearing. The second time, wheel detached from board while riding. 
I learned I can run and catch myself around 12mph though haha.
I’m wondering if it’s due to the lack of a spacer on the hubs or maybe I’m just using way too cheap bearings.
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WTF NO, see I figured that adapter was gonna be retarded. Whoever thought that adapter was a good idea replacing a bearing should be shot. Deadass if my wheel falls off while I’m riding, I’m taking those drives to the range and put 100 rounds through them.
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haha actually I think the adapters were the only thing saving my ass the first time as I think that’s all the wheel was holding on by. The second time when the wheel detached was in the middle of a turn which makes sense as the wheel was pulled off the adapter. I still think there should be a spacer between the adapter and outer bearing so you can somewhat crank the nut without fear of pinching the bearing. With reinforced axles, I shouldn’t fear about the axels breaking anymore.
I do have some thoughts about the adapter though. I’m wondering what the material of the adapter is. For me, the adapter doesn’t fit all the way into the wheel as it’s limited by the bearing well size. I think this should be compensated by either wheel or adapter side. It’d be nice to have an integrated spacer built into the adapter but I understand that different wheel thickness makes this hard.
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