Im mostly worried about the ability of the bearing to stay in one piece. The load is off center, and if it opens up a bit the balls come off.
If it doesn’t work i plan on using this as a Bolt, and those king of flat bearings. The slipring can go through and you can tighten down on the rotating system.
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Well guys this is where i am.
I have made pads for the trucks
I have improved the electronic box
And I am stuck on this less than ideal setup for the power transmission.
A bigger pulley on the wheel scraps the ground, and the belts i have are either too short or too long for a different pulley on the motor.
New belts are 10days away.
Maybe a tensioner bearing could be added ?
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So the wheel sits too far from the center of the laZ suzan, and the fulcrum tends to split it open.
I wanted to have a bearing just under the weight, so i designed this system around a flat cylinder type bearing.
I wille let you know how it works out.
20200811_193923|690x388, 50%
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I have yet to test ride it
I will let you know how it behaves
(upload://uJisBRyfucKkHVMTV2BwJKRN7tO.jpeg)
Cheers
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yeah I’m interested to see how your design handles the weight, it looks great!
Definitely looking forward to your tests!
Freebord isn’t too far out now…
So i was happy with my latest design, and it worked remarkably well.
It was amazing to feel that, finnally it was working !
For 10minutes.
I was prepared for something to come loose, but a whole truck snapped in half ! Wtf !
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SO guys, it seems it was freeboard-destroying time !
Yup. No going back now.
What’s good is that the underside of the deck is flatter.
and it is very good !
What an amazing floating feeling to be able to carve on the road.
It works, but i need to work on the belt transmission. It slips like crazy if i try to accelerate too much.
The rotating pivot always get loose.
I have ordered a set of htd5 pulleys/belts. I might try to solder a L-shaped bracket to the caster for the motor
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You could try throwing in a belt tensioner but wider belts would help I bet
hey guys
I have changed the belt system to 15mm wide HTD5. PLA 3D printed pullys for now.
It’s amazing ! i went for the biggest pulley i dared to put, it grinds a bit on the ground on a toe-slides, but it still works.
It completely changed the experience, now you really feel the power. no slips at all.
I took my phone to shoot a video for you all, but while riding i powerslided and the phone fell from my pocket, and i stepped hard on it, grinding it on the concrete. He ded.
This project is turning out to be expensive. i will provide a video with another, more ancient phone ASAP.
anyway I’m happy
improvements to do : the rotating system rattle a bit, i need to tighten everything
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Oh I’m so sorry my desire for documentation caused the death of your cellular device. Hope it wasn’t too much or new.
counter steering with a freebord truck for a front wheel 
I FINALLY ordered the parts to make a prototype.
Design isn’t really done but I need to make a good model of the KFL007 35mm pillow block bearing.
Found this one seller with a good deal shipped from the usa:
I like this seller because I feel like they will have good support.
https://mwands.com/180-amp-6-wire-slip-ring-wind-turbine-generators
anyone have questions about this module?
One thing I am not set on is how to get the suspension, I also don’t really know how much force I need but I don’t need a crazy amount I think.
A good thing about the design overall is how almost everything is adjustable or can be easily replaced with another part
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kinda get a look at this homebrew slip ring they have going.
#drftb electric freeboard kit prototype! the prototype for this kit that will make a standard freeboard ELECTRIC. dude…
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30mm in diameter, should fit great in a 2mm wall tube inside the 35mm bearing!
I like that I could run one motor or two with the exact same assembly.
like so
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ripping this image out of an email was very worth it.
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haha the giant 35mm pillow bearing actually arrives today! So I can start refining it’s model.
I have already made a slight change to it…
as you can see here in the max suspension height the motor wants to be in the same place as this bolt flange.
I think a good solution anyone could use would be cutting them off and drilling 4 m4 bolt holes instead of 2 m14 bolts.
I think I only need the 35mm od aluminum tube and the 3D printed bits to assemble something… hopefully I can make a belt i have work lol
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ok so as you can hopefully tell this is about as straight as where half our conversations on here go
wonky
however they are identically fucked not uniquely
This makes me think that the flaw could be measured and adjusted for.
Will toy around when I get something long with a 35mm od.
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