Explain it to me better, brother, which wheels are you talking about?
@Titoxd1000 got them today in the mail. You’re the man. THANK YOU
11 Likes
Cool. Looking forward to seeing the finished build.
1 Like
Ayy glad you got it worked out, looking forward to seeing what you build
3 Likes
currently pondering the efficacy of delrin/phosphor bronze to replace the urethane pivots currently being used, it seems like as is there’s maybe some uneven loading being placed on the bushings due to the pivot cups deforming a bit, I wonder if the trucks could be more predictable if the pivot cups were harder. Anyone else got some ideas for where any additional slop could be present in the system or how else I could maybe get a bit more precision out of these? The kart tires basically act as giant input amplifiers in my experience so any little wiggle is immediately noticeable during use.
Idk what duro the existing pivot bushings are, but you could also consider making new ones out of harder urethane. Casting urethane is really easy with printed molds.
Exway used bearings in theirs. I’m sure @Titoxd1000 is addressing this in his next iteration. Not sure how far he is along but he has been hinting at it
Good point, may also be relatively easy to dial in tolerances for since I can relatively easy print a bunch of different molds with slight differences. You know of any good suppliers? Thinking back to your urethane Hoyt 5 donuts and wondering what maybe factored into your search for what you used to make the final products since they seem to hold up well to repeated impacts
The floating bushing design should keep equal pressure on the bushings even if the pivots are deforming. Maybe the extra weight and extra grip of kart tires is throwing the hanger off axis a little under load. The newest batch of trucks is cross compatible with spherical bearings. They have slightly larger pivot bores which is enough to make spherical slip fit. The previous version maybe too tight of a press fit. I haven’t tested how this setup rides. The stock pivots are green 96a wfb or red 95a aps. I’ll consider getting some 100a wfb. I prefer urethane due to less harsh ride and big increase in durability.
4 Likes
I’ll message you in the group chat so we don’t clog up tito’s thread
1 Like
Interesting, were any changes made to the hanger or was it just the baseplates that were changed to enable the cross compatibility?
Just to the baseplate. The pivot OD difference is very little but enough to make it slip fit. I also did circular relieve in order to rotate spherical to make it easier to service in the future.
1 Like
Would you recommend we use adhesive or something to bond the bearing in? Also, I assume you still ship the trucks with the urethane pivot, is that relatively easy to remove? Apologies for all the questions, I am just super curious as I would like to purchase a set for my next track build.
Something to remove any play between spherical and baseplate would be good. Retaining compound or even threadlocker may be okay. There is small gap between spherical and hanger. I’m thinking nylon washers and shims would be good to take up the space. Urethane pivots are easy to remove, I use a 3mm ball end hex and pry it out… @AdityaAurora would probably be first to test and I’m working on getting a set out to him soon.
Can the hanger be flipped for less clearance but longer wheelbase?
I personally wouldn’t recommended it on the extended baseplate.. Perhaps you can drill extra holes on the deck to extend wheelbase.
1 Like
Could you please elaborate on why it might not be a good idea? I feel like i’m gonna need a fair bit of extension on my build and flipping the hanger will greatly reduce that extension…
3 Likes
It was not really designed for that. It would put a lot stress on the mounting hardware as well. Extensions would be a better option for your use case imo. You would likely want to have matching extensions front and rear in order to keep the standing platform level.
1 Like