I’m getting a hellhound from @tomiboi with extended noses in order to get inline with the axles. I’m going to pair it with 210mm hangers. Longer and narrow is better than shorter and wider imo.
It will work with 6-8 inch tires. The edges are beveled to reduce scraping on 6 inch tires. It’s going to have slots for the queenpin for easier bushing swaps. It’s pretty similar to @Dinnye board. The layup is a little different, more details on that later. Should make for a good street and/or track board.
Hi, noob here. I understand that for my hummie deck (top mount assembly) I should buy the flat deck version, but what I can’t quite figure out is whether to go for the centreset or offset option.
I have made a good effort to understand truck technology and, roughly speaking, it seems to me that the following applies: centreset = more stable at speed, less responsive; offset = more responsive, less stable at speed.
Use: 6in Nova (minimum wheel diameter allowed) only on paved roads, no faster than 32 miles/h. I would like to replicate the carving feel of the Cronins, which I really appreciate. Following this reasoning, I should choose the offset version. Is it that simple, or are there other evaluation parameters that I am unaware of?
I wouldn’t say that this is true? Much more important is the truck/hanger’s relationship to your standing platform/location.
Centerset/offset hanger will be a part of this, sure, but also will the truck’s mounting position and the direction that you have the offset hanger. (it can be put in either direction; more ground clearance or lower standing platform). A board with offset hangers could have the exact same setup with centerset hangers with a different baseplate mounting position (different deck holes and/or spacers). Only difference would be the ground clearance.
Picking which to use is going to depend on your specific deck(amount of drop), underslung battery size (if any), desired ground clearance, and desired feeling of the board. Personally, I prefer the mountainboard baseplate with an offset hanger because it allows for more setup flexibility, but that’s just me.
Stability is going to be much more defined by your bushing setup/angles/deck geometry. For causal (non-racing) riding, your standing platform primarily affects the vibe of the board, however… It’ll be the different between being “on top” of the board vs “in” the board.
That said, we have found that a lower standing platform (closer to inline with the axles) is typically more stable(especially in corners).
On flat deck trucks the offset hanger is 60mm axle height which is pretty much the same height as rkp trucks. (Technically you can flip the front offset hanger but it’s not recommended since it pushes axle forward a bunch). Centerset is 50mm axle height and also has 10mm less baseplate to ground clearance. For reference the lowest point on the standard offset hanger is ~28mm. So on something like 125mm wheels the offset hanger is pretty much a must for ground clearance. For 6-8 inch tires either would work.
It’s worth point out that the rear is 50mm axle height. So I include a 10mm riser if you choose the standard offset hanger up front. Centerset would match the rear height.
If you’re not riding on the track it would be hard to tell the difference between the two imo but the lower ride height is nice if you can spare the ground clearance.
Interesting, this sounds really similar to what I was trying to go for, any chance you’d be down to lmk what hanger setup/orientation you’re pairing with this to get that result (offset vs centerset, flipped in vs out, etc.)?
I’m going to pair the custom hellhound with the new extended front baseplate for max ground clearance. 210mm offset hangers, front hanger axle end inward, rear hanger outward for motor clearance. 6384 rear and 6355 front. (If I was going any bigger up front I would need to switch to the non extended baseplate and have front hanger outward). Deck has custom cutouts to clear the narrower hangers.
I notice all of these photos illustrating ground clearance are taken on 200mm tires. I’ve got no beef with the low-hanging jewels on 200mm, but want to run 175mm and smaller. I’m at a loss as to how to completely eliminate the protrusion while still adding 5deg of steering angle. Even a full skid plate would need to taper to allow full range of motion of the hanger. Maybe a bow-tie shaped skid plate that spreads the impact load initially, then tapers inward becoming a “rail”, then widens to where it meets the deck?
Flipping the front hanger inwards would give you 20mm additional ground clearance. So about 5mm less clearance with 6 inch tires than with 8 inch tires and the hanger outward. Flipping the hanger inward would reduce the wheelbase, that’s why I recently made the extended front baseplate to match the wheelbase and still have the additional ground clearance… Extenders long enough can probably accomplish similar.
Yeah, that’s what the helmet and pads are for I guess. I love that these trucks are so much fun (and maintenance-free!) that we dismiss the occasional auto-eject.
This extended baseplate works great. I took it out to one of our rockier rides today and not a scratch on it. No noticeable difference in ride height or wheelbase. Nicely done @Titoxd1000 !
Cool man! I think the extended baseplate does become the new recommend setup due to the extra ground clearance with not much or any real downsides over the original 5 degree baseplate.
It would cool if Idea made some brackets that dropped the ride height even more than the current offerings.. As for a one piece design integrated in the baseplate it’s not the most practical. It can be done but I would probably be in the same ballpark price of the one linked of $500 per truck..
Making a bracket that gets the standard platform even with the axle might be good application for sendcutsend. They can bend a steel plate and then you’d probably want to weld a reinforcement plate/gusset.
