Would you rate them Krank < APS < WFB?
Only ridden the baseline Kranks, wanna get more time on them before I try the APS set Tito included.
So far, for me, these trucks feel way better than anything I tried before. 
@Titoxd1000 should the kingpin set screw be tightened after adjusting the nut or left loosened all the time?
To be fair I don’t have a lot of experience on Krank in these trucks.
But krank, generally speaking, has the most rebound and restricts turn at the end of lean. I generally prefer lower rebound setups especially on the front.
In my opinion krank shines where you are trying to tune bushings feel around clearance issues like wheelbite, or if you prefer to run tighter trucks. In my setups I always try to achieve loose trucks with deep lean, and in my opinion for that krank is not the ideal formula.
If you prefer to have a lot of rebound while carving to carry energy through to the next turn, krank is pretty good there also.
WFB is quite the opposite of krank. Low rebound, loosest ride feel. Doesn’t really throw you back into the turn while carving, if you plan to use the board exclusively for carving it’s not the ideal choice, for me anyways. The beauty of WFB is that you can run higher duros for a tighter center, but they loosen up the further you lean so they can achieve a lot of stability without giving up any turn, as the end of the lean always stays quite loose. That’s why I like them for track racing. But it’s definitely not for everyone and doesn’t fit every setup.
Also the 95.5A WFB is still quite loose for my 180-190 lbs deep into the lean, even though I always run my trucks loose, so the current duro options don’t really fit heavier riders.
Then there’s APS which is kinda a middle ground between the two. For a board where I am mostly going to be carving while leaning in super deep, this would be my choice of formula. It’s a great formula all around, fits many setups well. Generally suited best to run medium / loose trucks in my opinion. They tighten up more at the end of lean compared to WFB, but they don’t tighten up as much as Krank does. In some trucks especially with a lot of articulation like the Dualities, they can start tearing over time, so in such setups it’s best to keep an eye on them from time to time.
It should be tight while adjusting the nut, and loosened afterwards.
If the flatspot on the kingpin doesn’t line up with the set screw, or the set screw is too loose the nut with just end up turning the whole kingpin when you try tightening it
Easy breezy!!!
Yes I think this is the right call. No need to make new hangers, and the axles would be interchangeable.
For me, I would rather have the freedom to set up a spacer stack exactly as I need it, rather than be locked into a stepped axle. This is DIY after all 
Plus, doing 10mm the whole length saves you from having to make a decision about the length of the 12mm section (which might not work for some people). If someone wants 10mm axles, then it should be up to them to figure out their spacer stack.
@Titoxd1000 do you know if the current axles long enough to fit the m1-at gear drive and hubba hubs or the linnpower slicks?
I think so. The axle is 65mm long. @Dinnye had enough room to run an additional 8mm spacer with the m1-at drive for 6395 motor clearance. Hubba hubs are like 3-4mm wider than mbs wheels. And @ShutterShock is running the linnpower slicks I believe.
(The jump drives and hubba hubs combo needs longer axle)
Yeah I’m running BN drives with the linn slicks on the Next rims from linn
In my mind, conventional trucks always had this qwerky awkwardness, like a 3-legged bar stool. And channel trucks seemed like a step in the right direction. But the Tito design has all the angles covered in clean and well thought out concept.
The floating queen pin and the fact that the bushings are not supporting the weight of the rider make this design an ingenious innovation. The two pivot points give hinge like linearity because the bushings are tasked only with steering. Which in turn, gives you pure and unadulterated feedback. Whist utilizing all of the skateboard bushing research, technology and development learned over the last 40 years.
Thx for the pic Tuck!
is that blood?
Is the only way to change the bushings on these to completely remove the trucks from the deck?
If the set screw is loose won’t the Kingpin just fall out from Gravity?
Or drill a kingpin access hole like I did
In my experience it doesn’t move even when it’s left completely loose.
Removing the queen pin through the top eliminates the need to remove the hanger from the base plate.
this can be accomplished in at least three different ways.
Drill an access hole such Dinnye has:
Or
If you are Top Mount/Drop Thru:
Or remove the truck from the deck.
If you would rather to disassemble the truck than remove it from the deck, do as follows:
First remove the nut from the end of the queen pin, just as on a conventional truck.
Then remove one M8 bolt and Nordlock washer from the block that houses one of the pivot tubes. Then that block can be slid off of the hanger.
Then loosening the set screw on the side of the base plate will allow the queen pin and hanger to be removed from the bottom.
The pivot tube block is a robust, machined fit on the hanger and Nordlock washers are not meant to be reused, so in my opinion, I would prefer one of the previous methods of removal.
No, it’s grease.
The blood sacrifice happened elsewhere
No, it is held captive by the larger OD of the Queen pin not fitting through the upper washer that is closest to the deck. The two bushings and washers are “sandwiching” the hanger tightly, and the larger, floating portion of the pin is only using the base plate for lateral stabilization.
There’s a lot of pieces working in harmony there, it is truly an ingenious device.
The sole purpose of the pin being allowed to float(scope in or out), is so that any preload or squish that you crank in with the nut is then evenly distributed between the two bushings on either side of the hanger.
As far as the hanger knows, the Queen pin is mounted solid.
The main purpose of the the set screw is to hold “back-up” whilst you are turning the nut. And obviously, to allow for disassembly.
You should never need to tighten the set screw down to the point where it touches the flat section on the pin.
If you do, then just back it out 1/4 turn or so. This will allow the pin to scope in & out. Yet still keep it from turning all the way around freely (freewheeling).
If you don’t have access to remove the queenpin from the top like others mentioned then yes you would need to remove the truck from the deck. When you slide out the queenpin you access the bushings without removing the pivot arm. (The zero degree baseplate you can technically change bushings by removing both pivots arm but would recommend against this)
The Nordlock washers can be reused but they should be fully inspected that the cams and the serrations are in good shape. This is one reason though to avoid removing pivot arm if possible.
Oh shit, thanks!
Of this, I was not aware. There is a difference, but only just.
Look rly similar to Valkyrie mk 3.5
Those came out when I was still testing the prototypes, looks like we had similar idea. Fixed pivot axis is the goal of most skate trucks we just have different ways of achieving it.
