On a skate tool in the scenario that we’re discussing then only one or maybe two of those tools actually work for my boards.
I much rather just know that if I carry a full metric set then I can take apart my board completely.
I kinda wanna try to develop a esk8 tool which is just a T or X shaped tool for all the common parks on esk8 specifically
If youre carrying a toolset, it should already include something for the already established kingpin nut size.
Just make one that has a couple square 1/4” socket ends and one with a square 3/8” socket fitting, then you can outfit the tool with whatever sizes you need for that board and chuck it in your bag.
That’s a good point. I originally designed these trucks with 6+ inch tires in mind and looking at over again that is probably a safe range to stick to. Which would minimize most of the benefits of having a 10mm axle option.
Not me having a bag full of tools and still using my trusty old skate tool (with 7/16 nut adapter)
Skatetool adapter.step (74.9 KB)
Yep that’s fair. If urethanes wont work cus the pivot cup hangs down too far, then 10mm axles probably dont matter. There’s not many wheels for 6" tires that can’t use 28mm bearings.
For me personally, if the hoyt5’s (123mm diameter) wouldn’t clear the pivot cup comfortably, then I dont care about 10mm axles anymore.
Every Chinese hub
Beneath consideration, especially when Rockstar2’s are so cheap and good. If you’re buying Tito’s $500 trucks, you probably are not limited to garbo pneumatics hubs with 22mm bearing seats.
You’re preaching to the choir here lol
MAD tubeless wheels can run either 22mm or 28mm OD bearings.
And?
These suckers are solid. Robust. Thicc. I love it. Newbee 4GS fit great on them, plenty of room between motor cans (6485’s)
What angles are those baseplates?
35°/15°
With regards to @Ac53n 's comment (thanks for clarifying btw), the board is currently fitted with BN 270’s hangars set at 40 degrees in the front and the rear. Currently, the ride heights seem fairly similar for both front and back at ~90 mm from the top of the deck to the center of the hangar where the axle would be. This is the result given that the rear axle is ~15 mm closer to the center of the board than the forwardmost deck mounting holes. The front axle is ~15 mm further forward on the board than the rearmost deck mounting holes. Not sure if this was the kind of info that you were looking for but hope it helps!
On second thought, exactly how far down does the pivot cup hang from the axle? Even something as small as a 100mm wheel has 50mm of height from the axle to the ground. For example, if the pivot cup only hangs down ~20mm on 35° baseplates, then that would probably be enough clearance for some.
If someone is crazy enough to want urethanes on these trucks, they probably won’t be put off by the ground clearance 
If baseplates are the same front and rear on magnetic that’s good sign a 25 degree baseplate will work front and rear also… Let me know if this makes more sense. I am trying to figure out the axle position needed relative to the center of the bolt pattern. In this is example, the red do is center, the green dot is 15mm rearward of the center.
(We need to account for deck tip angle, notice the right angle symbols)
Looks like it is around ~28mm lower than axle. Not much clearance on thane.
32mm of clearance on Hoyt5’s though! 
So I would definitely buy 10mm axles when I can afford these trucks.
