I don’t think sendcutsend does 3D CNC work I looked at them for that recently
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Not necessarily the exact thing it’s self
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Man, I feel Jeff’s pain WRT pricing. I’m having a real hard time finding somebody to do the CNC work for a price that makes any sense at all. We’re talking ~$1k+ for a set of four. At that price, it makes more sense for me to just get / build a desktop CNC of my own.
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This is the future of fab
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We talking to Jeff today about your design, we think it’s super cool!
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For cheapest possible CNC prices, check these vendors:
- https://www.plethora.com/
- Fictive.com
- https://www.hubs.com/ (select slowest / overseas)
- maybe xometry.com
But short of pro-bono no one is going to cnc any hubs of this size/shape for much cheaper than $1k, even China. Especially if you’re literally only ordering 4. That’s the cost of materials and time.
This is why @surfnacho’s infinity hubs are $1k per set, and his family owns their own full size cnc…
Ways to cut costs:
- Aggressively remove any design feature that adds time to cut - I’m talking super basic design here
- Minimize 3D features - 2D is your friend
- Make each hub 2 pieces of the same part (or more) - now you’ve doubled your qty and get bulk discounts
- No threading, very large radii, no tight tolerances at all
- Reduce overall part size (smaller max dia)
Ultimate way to cut cost:
- Design the hubs so they’re composed of a stack of 2D plates - skip cnc entirely and get them laser/waterjet → this would be a great way to continue prototyping for cheap, but balancing is going to be a real hassle.
Other option:
- Find a friend with access to an industrial 3D printer (like a Markforged) - print these in something like the Onyx carbonfiber reinforced nylon at material cost
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I wonder if we could produce numbers and arrange a groub puy to affect their numbers enough to make it an effective means for the numbers of us who are dying to come up with an alternative to figuring out how to sell a kidney to afford the supa premium hoyt gear…
Alternatively, how silly is it to think i could hand machine somin like this? have a friend who offered to help me mqke these for myself. He’s been a machine shop tool n dye maker forever nd wee have access to a pretty good custom engine rebuild shop with plenty of equipment to make them, he didnt batt an eye when i told him what im tryna do.
So i told him i needed time to come up with the design but havent even begun yet, and when i sked him what the cost would be to help me make em and he said hed rather justbdo the favor for me in case he needed anything in the future that i could help him with. [Kinda reminded me of this community here lol]
I wonder if qe xould actually make a few sets and then god forbid that one veey special nacho isnt coming back, there will be not only an enormous void left in the community but also perhaps an enormous opportunity to try producing something approximate to his super premium hubs, of which i am very thankful i recently recieved after a long delay.
Which now seemingly could be some of the last. Really i sure hope not because i dont reallllyyyyy want to be tempted to try starting an esk8 business in any fashion.
Actyally, secretly i seriusly do, just this week, i was brainstorming how much practice it would take me to become anything close to a sender or make the ranks master battery builder.
Anyways, great work, @Ancient ! Think ill pm ya and call my pal to see if we can realize thr potential that seems to be here
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I’m thinking about it. Will spin off a new thread if I do. In talks with a local CNC shop right now.
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What about the ninja hubs route? Only making the parts that really need to be out of metal, that is. I do NOT like metal kegel cores, anyways, they’re a serious pain in the sack to work with.
Or, fuck, just full on plastic. What are mbs hubs made of anyways? Use that.
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On most hubs, yeah, metal is better, duh. But 5 inch tires aren’t meant for rough terrain anyways.
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Yeah - this is a good thought. I’ll play around with a design that pairs a metal rim with a plastic core. The plastic will still need to be CNC’d unless somebody wants to spring for an injection mold, but it could simplify some geometries and lead to a less expensive build overall. I think we need to keep the metal rim because Jeff’s tires say 40psi max and I could see the resulting stress on the rim going out of bounds for plastic trying to hold that kind of pressure.
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What about the bearing seat? Doesnt this sort of have to be kind of exact?
@Kai and off topic 
I am so sorry, getting your tires in the mail tommorow morning and sending you a few extras Been a bit busy
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The bearing seats and kegel interface will definitely need some precision machining. I’m going to throw some GD&T on the bolt hole pattern that holds the pieces together as well.
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Lol yer good I threw together a scrappy lil thane build for now lmao. I been working a bunch of events anyways.
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Well… if the MBS plastic hubs are any indication, then no 
But you could probably get close enough (better than mbs plastic) with default tolerances. Any shop with a 3 axis cnc can hit +/- 0.005" (+/- 0.127mm) tolerances all day. You’d want better than than for a proper tight clearance fit (22mm seat día -0 +0.021mm tolerance for H7 fit), but that costs money. It all comes down to budget. I was only suggesting ways to decrease cost.
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Neither of these manufacturing processes are going to lower your price enough to make a dent. CNC time is CNC time no matter the material.
In fact, the cost of raw 6061 aluminum is probably on par or cheaper than the nice plastic you’d need for this.
3D printed reinforced plastic is your best bet
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If you could find threaded pins of the right size, off the shelf, you don’t need precision machining for the kegel pins.
Edit: if it’s not obvious by now, i do this exact kinda stuff (design, drafting, DFMA, quoting, and sourcing) all day. Happy to help if more in depth assistance is needed. We need more hubs on the market
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This is a sweet design!
Couldn’t help but think through this a bit. If you’d take some constructive feedback -
you may look to adding a locating feature to match the two sides together. Fasteners will work in a pinch, but they are not ideal for this - they clamp, they don’t locate well. Especially since fasteners themselves are not precision parts - its not ideal to put them in precision holes.
MBS and Trampa both have this sort of locating feature on some of their hubs. An extrusion on one side, matching a recess on the other:
One other thing, @Savage1 can def speak to this better than i can, but you may increase the height of the left part (w/ bearing seat) to match the sidewall height to the top of the bearing seat. And decrease the same amount from the right part. This would mean your overall raw material size is a bit less. Same end result, just moves your ‘parting line’ over. Maybe save a few dollars
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