@TheGoodMomentum did you decide on a size for the xl wheels?
I’ll throw my vote in for 130mm if you haven’t chosen yet 
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130 would be cool too. 
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I am putting together a website and people can sign up next to the wheel they want most. The poll results will be hidden so as to not introduce any bias between people.
Should be up in 2 weeks.
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How big is too big? I was only half joking about a 150mm+ version 
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Actually, that’s not a bad idea. Sometimes you need to have a goal in mind to come up with a viable solution. I don’t think 150mm is beyond reason.
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I’d love something 150+ that can somehow use MBS bolt pattern to attach to my 4GS drives. Niche? Maybe
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Stooge SRB(?) wheels are 150mm
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Yes. Made by BRP - Bishop Racing Products.
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I think 130mm is an ideal next size because it’s larger than existing urethane wheels (110/111) and smaller than common 150-160mm pneumatics.
There’s really not much besides the Hoyt 5’s in that size (Hoyt 5’s are a little smaller actually).
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I like the idea of 130mm, but I’d also like something slightly bigger. Maybe 132-142mm if possible
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Sorry but got to call you out on this. at the start we threw a huge number of quality pulleys that your design would not work with, once you had confirmed that a short kegsl pullys was needed.
We even did a poll with kegsl pulleys been mutch more popular (this was the same time the abec cloud wheel pully failure was kicking off on the forums. Due to manufacturing cost cuttings. You chose to ignore that and said it cost to much time to redesign the molds then had to later because of delaminating issues but decided not to acomidate full sized quality kegal pullys.
I’m also going to throw in a i toled you so with tapering wheels you insisted would increase grip and you engineering knowledge but totally ignored that skateboard trucks don’t have independent suspension and therefore body roll does not work in the same way, negating the advantage of the extreme taper. As well as reducing straight line grip and breaking grip. Which you now seem to be reevaluating.
To sum up my feedback from my armchair engineering degree of feedback you chose to ignor.
Reduce taper (you research miss understood out axles geometry)
Careful of specialise in the formula for hot countries only. (I and many others ride in cold damp countrys)
Comparability with boards out side of evolve eco structure.
2 you have initially rejected and needed to redesign so I’m 2 out of 3 on I toled you do.
Ps I’m with you on the last few 100 posts of bearing failure been the issue. but a bearing failure can also be the result of the wheels, bearing seats if the seats are not sized and aligned properly can be one of many reasons a bearing can fail. For this reason it’s hard to totally rule out the wheel been the cause but far more likely, it’s a the bearing issue.
As well as the taper changes, the load on the bearings due to the twist, it would cause on the axle, unlike other wheels this will cause the bearing to see a lot higher load compare to other wheels, meaning it’s not as simple as a load been shared across all eight bearings. I don’t think this will cause to many noticeable issues but I do think it will have a little impact on bearing life and a little additional side load that them bearings hate.
I’d also like to point out that a high quality precision ABEC bearing isn’t always better within skateboard wheels due to the harsh nature of what happens to it within a skateboard wheel. This is literally what Bones bearings made there name on and why so many’s pro rated them over supposed higher quality other options.
It’s not all negative there’s a lot of interesting parts to this wheel and love that you pushing the ideas and devolmemy of what has been a very unchanged and stagnet market any why I invested back September 2020 and still have a positive outlook for this project
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Your armchair engineering degree did no favors in regards to your grammar.
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He makes valid arguments though.
(To be clear, I also fully support the project.)
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Which is why I didn’t point out the problems with what he said, I’m just being a diva.
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Where did those latest delamination pictures go? Now i’m getting more anxious to try mine 
its raining since I got them 
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Pretty sure you should be fine as long as you don’t have first batch comfort wheels or you’re over the weight limit on the pros
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If something happens, just contact me and I’ll take care of you.
Blog post back in the fall: Blog #31: Still shipping, Improving Quality Process, V2 Hollow Wheel I – Momentum-Boards
Hey @Darkie02,
Thanks for your post. I can tell you put in a lot of thought into it and thank you for contributing to the thread! Here is the reason why the Hollow Wheel wasn’t absolutely perfect:
Tooling is expensive. I am not a millionaire. I had already cut the tooling and I did not have enough cash to make tooling changes.
As time goes on, I’ll continue to improve the Hollow Wheel. I plan to make tooling & material changes each year continually to always improve this product.
TLDR:
- I cut tooling, then certain variables changed. Since it takes a lot of money to modify the tooling, I could only afford so many changes.
Kegel Pins Length:
I have to create a whole new mold for the cover to fit the kegel pins. It’s not cheap; in fact, you can buy a car with the money needed to make the mold change. So please consider that before you go all “I told you so and you didn’t listen to me”.
Moreover, back then Boosted (sold the most boards in all of Esk8) used Kegel but their pins are very short so I had to forge ahead because of money constraints. I figured I would be able to generate enough cash flow with this configuration and continue ahead. Eventually, I will make the change when I generate enough cash to afford it. It’s not like I am saying to myself, “Darkie is saying something… I don’t care.”. In fact, about 2% of the population of the customer base has this issue; it is important to me but I have to select my battles carefully with the resources I have. In the meantime, it is not the best user experience for those people with long kegel pins.
Taper:
I incorporated the taper to help increase range efficiency. Independent suspension or not, there is still lateral weight transfer. I have spent hours capturing slow-motion video and range efficiency data to convince myself this is the right call. I know it still is the right call.
I am re-evaluating the negative taper, but only dialing it back. The reason is that when I was prototyping, I was using cast polyurethane, with a vastly different flexural modulus than the material that I have arrived at today. The materials today that I am using are stiffer than the materials I prototyped with. So I agree it is a little bit too much negative camber but making changes like that means tooling changes and decisions to make the changes comes down to cost. If you recall, I spent the past 2 years testing different materials that had different stiffness.
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