I did not know there were that many long Kegel Pulleys. I’ll try to make a revision on V2 to make some cut-outs.
It is a tooling and budget issue and I’m just trying to get more cash flow to make the revision changes.
This stuff is not cheap.
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I tried lol
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same issue…I drilled through and haven’t yet died. At least I don’t think so.
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I just don’t wanna wreck these, but I’m tempted to
It was this or cut off the end of my nice metal Kegel Pulleys…I left them uncut.
Unfortunately I use bolt-through from the outside, so it’s either cut the heads off my bolts nd secure them to the gear permanently or buy new gears.
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I think I have extra 3D Servisas kegel gears if you’re interested
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Those wouldn’t work in a BNM1 would they?
I should just grab a set of new adapters from BN anyway. The bolts look cool though, like mini wheel lugs.
Nah don’t think so
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so, I’m still unable to use these wheels even if I made my adaptors work with them.
I run gear drives that require consistent force along the axle, meaning I need spacers inside the wheels between the bearings
what size do I need the spacers to be and do you sell them @TheGoodMomentum ?
or maybe, if kegel outers and spacers aren’t available, have a disclaimer saying these wheels are not compatible with all setups especially BN gear drives or any kegel with bolt-through mounting.
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They are standard 10.2mm spacers unless I’m confused on what you are doing.
bearing to bearing distance inside the wheel. to keep pressure from the axle nut along the axle to the gear drive mount.
if still confused see the BNM1 assembly instructions.
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The 8mm spacer is what you use for thane on m1’s just put mine back together with the speed upgrade motor pulley. Not hollow wheels … should be the same tho.
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Thought I’d pop the bearings in.
Abec side bearings went in with zero effort.
Been pushing for half an hour, my fingertips hurt like hell from trying to get the Kegel side in and I still haven’t made any progress. No bearing should be this hard to install. I feel these Kegel sides may have an incorrect tolerance or something.
One drawback: Bearing requires more force to insert into the race compound core. I am using a different core compound to get good chemical adhesion between the core and the tread so as to not have the delamination issues. As such, the shrinkage of the core material is a little bit more than the other compound used for the standard compound. As such, the bearing hole is a little tighter. However, I am using one mold for two different compound with different shrinkage rates. It isn’t ideal and doesn’t pose any durability issues, but something to people to know when considering this.
To overcome this, put the inboard bearing on the axle, put the wheel on the axle and align the bearing with the bearing seat, then tighten the axle nut until the bearing is seated fully. Don’t use a spacer between the bearings during this or the bearing won’t fully seat. You might need to add washers under the axle nut if you run out of thread before the bearing is seated.
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Get a c clamp. Or a bolt.
i want to know more about the inserts…maybe i missed it somewhere. No inserts vs all vs some?
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Put your bearings in the freezer for a while then it will make it easier to install as they’ll shrink a little bit.
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Also, in that picture they look to be going in a little crooked.
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LOL, get a proper press that doesn’t push on the inner race.