I’ve been researching and this is a weird one, I recently bought a hummie and a battery that was kind of built into the deck. It is a 12s 6p 30q battery. Upon testing everything was all right, I did 3 short 7-12 km rides to check if everything was alright and the jumped on to a 28km one (which for me is a lot) and everything was working flawlessly.
When going out for my fifth ride, shortly after leaving home I had a weird problem, my diebiebms cutted out and wasn’t responding, so I had to come back home riding the board the good old way. And when going downhill I noticed my unity button light went on so I pushed it and the board turned on again. It worked fine after that but I was close to home so I didn’t want to take chances.
Jump to now, I charged the batteries, jumped again on the board but this time with all my tools on me so I could do servicing on the go. After 3 kms of riding my power cutted of again, it was in flat roads and while I was going kind of hard on the board, in the moment of the cutout I was doing nothing, just cruising at a little more than walking speed.
Opened the board right there and found out something weird. The bms lights turned on upon minimal touch of the on off button, (two green at first, then one of them started blinking, then off both) and while the lights where doing that the unity didn’t turn on even though I pushed the button. I tried several conbinations and nothing. The lights did the same.
After a little while (10 mins)(not doing anything) everything started working again, so I screwed 4 bolts of the enclosure and started riding slowly home. 3 minutes later, I was back on my feet as another cutout happened at exactly 15km/h. And from there I walked home with my 16kg board. Not a fun experience.
I know this is a long read and most of it it’s irrelevant information, but does someone know what it may be happening? I can’t measure pgroups voltage individually until I’m back home but will do when I get back tonight.
Okay so what power button are you using? Momentary or latching. And have you tried swapping the switch? I would check all connections and power switch to see if all the wires are firmly inside the JST connector.
I have a latching switch on mine and it does light up even if I push the switch ever so slightly, extremely sensitive.
I have an issue of my own that I haven’t worked out yet but isn’t problematic.
Basically when I have the switched “on” and push the power button “off” nothing happens. I need to press the button “on” again and then the board and diebie shuts down. When I press it “off” again it stays off. It’s really funky but always the same so I just press the button twice basically to turn it off.
This has nothing to do with your problem I reckon, but the diebie is know for all sorts of problems so take the time to really check everything and eliminate possibilities
Sounds realistic for me. Antisparks use power from their input to open the fets. Almost any, I think, antispark design assumes that battery connected directly to it.
Can you check the realtime voltages of the battery? Alot of diebies tend to leak current killing pgroups, think its a ESD thing cause I keep breaking stuff if I unplug it one too many times.
If you set hysteresis/voltage diff too narrow in the settings, the diebiems might trigger errors.
Think preset is like 5 errors until it stops working entirely. If you have one drifting Pgroup and your treshold for this setting is in the millivoltrange you’ll likely experience this. Usually happens during load and the weak pgroup dips slightly more than the others.
Also I really recommend push to start, its like the entire reason I even bother with it
Acording to the pc app, all my pgroups are fine, what its a good settinh for the hysteresis, mine is set to 0,020V. And the number of errors is set to 5.
I will dm him if the problem persists. There is some userful information, but im no good with electronics, i can identify burned shit, which my bms has none, but i dont have a voltimeter. the only weird thing i found was this:
Well, ended up not doing the test due to bad weather and lots fo work. But turns out i didnt bypass the bms corrrectly. I have connected my vesc to the pack+, and pack- of the diebiems, leaving the load+ unplugged from everything, and the common - connected to just the charge port- ( the charger+ its on the charge+ port) Can someone explain to me what im doing wrong? Should i connect the vesc to the common-?
I havn’t bypassed the BMS, since part of the purpose is to be able to handle the current, all those pricey components need to do thier job if you ask me.
But in theory you would just have the BMS in parallell to the battery plus and minus. I take it you still charge via charge port tho? as in its bypass in discharge but not in charge? Doubt it will balance if you dont.
(Common- and pack- is the same electrical connection on the PCB(GND))
I have bypassed it because I really can’t bother to troubleshoot why the f the bms cuts my current. Ive been thinking of selling the diebiems and buying a simpler one, I simply don’t have time to troubleshoot.
For some reason, the bms doesn’t charge my battery in that configuration, the lights of it doesn’t turn on and the light of the charger doesn’t indicate that it’s charging. I don’t know what to do anymore
Edit: Yes I want to charge thought the charge port, so the bms balances my pgroups. Just want to bypass on the discharge.
The chances of troubleshooting stuff are critically high in DIY scenarios sadly
Are you connected to the DieBiems tool while trying to charge to observe whats going on?
I’ll try my best to help out via text.
You can start with having your setup on your desk ready to charge, (preferably not a full battery).
Have a PC next to it with a USB cable on standby.
Before you plug in the USB, plugin the charger before you connect, else the DieBie wont figure out you want it to start charging if its already woken up by the USB getting plugged in.
Easiest practice is to have the micro USB on the BMS plugged in and removing the USB on the PC side since the micro wares out faster and could be trickier to plug in depending on your setup.
I had cutouts with DieBieMS but the reason for that was really simple, bad connection of balance cable. On the picture you can see some pins sit really deep and making bad contact.
Okay, followed your instructions and got to the computer. As i said earlier when i connect the charger, no ligths turn on on the bms. i waited 20 secs and proceded to plug the bms to the computer, activated rt data and saw nothing special, smal voltage variation but nothing interesting, my pgroup voltage reads at 4v wich equals to the battery being 48v right now. I will take a short video so you can see the voltage variation with the charger versus without the charger.
After tacking the videos i realized the bms reads 49.2 volts and i dont know why.
Also, i later connected thee bms without the charger and the v pack reads 0 even though my rt data its on.
Charger connected b4 computer rtdata
