Potentially dumb question but do you know if ant BMSs are included in this? I’m under the impression they use the same or similar phone apps. Related: is it possible/difficult to run an LLT BMS at lower than rated series count (10S battery on a 12S LLT)
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I’m not 100% sure if you can static balance on an ANT BMS as I just sent the batteries that used them to the customer.
Yeah, I turned a 10s into a 12s and a 12s into a 10s before. Anything between 10s and 15s can be converted. You just need to find which pads need to be bridged and what spots in the connectors have wires.
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So Daly BMS are pointless, esp when bypassing and using for charge only
No. They function nearly identical to most BMS’s that are designed for charge balancing, by maintaining balance of a healthy pack when plugged in to a charger.
If a group/cell is dying no bms will be able to stop that from causing imbalance and a problem, you just might notice it more quickly. Now if you were discharging through the bms it would cut off discharge signaling to you there is an issue, but again that doesn’t solve your problem only removing/replacing the cells will in both cases.
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Now imagine this happening while you’re riding. Not good.
This is why we bypass
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I never bypassed a BMS, since there is no reason for it, if it can handle the current. I don’t know if this is really a point to assume that a P-group is dying while riding and the BMS will shut off. If you don’t bypass the BMS the cells are always balanced and if not you’ll notice it. If a P-group is that much damaged that the BMS would shut off, you probably would have issues with a bypassed BMS as well.
Did you read my reply?
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Every pack will eventually have one or more weak cells/p-groups which could trigger a BMS discharge shutoff if the rider takes the voltage down low enough (all depends on the settings and cell/pack condition). We can’t assume all packs will stay healthy, even p-groups that are just aging normally can vary in their under-load voltage at lower charge levels.
If you discharge bypass the BMS it’s just as balanced, or unbalanced, as a pack with a BMS that is not bypassed. Balancing almost always only happens during charging and that is the same for bypassed and non-bypassed BMS’.
Often the way a rider notices a unbalanced pack is by the BMS cutting off the discharge…which is a less-than-good thing.
A p-group doesn’t have to be badly damaged to trigger a BMS shutdown. Just normal aging causes p-groups to magnify their initial differences and eventually that can cause a BMS’ shutoff. You can hold that off for a while by not using the pack as hard, setting low cutoff thresholds, stopping before the pack voltage gets too low, etc. But it will happen eventually if you continue using the pack. Every pack will reach this point given the chance.
Yes, bypassed and non-bypassed BMS setups will have this same problem. The non-bypassed setup will shut off the BMS though, possibly tossing you into low earth orbit. 
The bypassed BMS setup though will allow you to still ride, possibly damaging the cells more (than normal cycle aging would), but you won’t get tossed.
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Thank you for the detailed explination. I understood the point, but I was not aware that this actually happens in the real world, since I never experienced a BMS cutoff due to unballanced cells in 20.000 km of riding. I had 2 times a broken BMS though.
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That wouldn’t guarantee that it couldn’t happen to someone else though. With such a huge variety of setups, with different BMS’ and settings, different packs and cell condition, and different styles of riding just about anything can happen to someone at least once.
All it takes is someone with a bad cell, lower cutoff voltage setting, over-stressed pack, or older cells than you have and they can get a BMS shutoff. It definitely does happen. So many wouldn’t be so adamant about bypassing a BMS if no one ever got tossed from their board.
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#fuckdischargebms
Been there, got the scars to prove it.
We need bms that intelligently communicate with the esc and let the esc handle any necessary power cuts.
Until then, the bms can live with the charger.
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I see BMSs offered both with and without NTC (temperature sensor) for the same price.
For a charge-only setup, do most order without the NTC?
without a Bluetooth connection or something to communicate with, the temp sensor is just used as a safety measure to cutoff if the battery gets too hot
But in a charge only scenario, it doesn’t really happen, so I wouldn’t us it
But it sure doesn’t hurt to have one
Does anyone have any clarifications that the CLRD / Deligreen and daly bms are the same just repackaged ?
if u see those red shell bms, they are all made by daly
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I figured as much… but hadnt seen any specific confirmations… i mean china doesnt exactly have any standard per say when plagerising other peoples products lol
its not plagerising when u pay enough money to have ur brand logo stamp on the oem product
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Fair call 
I’ve never used a bms but planning yo get a Daly one to go with this esc:
If I’m using lifepo4 what would be the maximum lifepo4 in series that’s safe considering will do high regen.
I’d like to charge at high current sometimes too. I think I want to go around discharge on the bms? if I have my regen set to sometime really high will that be a prob?
Building a bike battery and my daly just arrived from Ali. Wondering if someone can clarify the wiring for me. @BenjaminF provided a wiring diagram as below and the identica diagram came w the bms but most of the leads are attached to the POS cell terminals. Is this how everyone is wiring them? I would much rather wire balance leads to NEG terminals where possible to reduce the risk of shorts.
Edit: Also, I’m wiring for discharge through the bms. Don’t think that will impact the balance wiring at all but there it is.
The LLT has a similar wiring diagram to the Daly as per the website but you can wire it successfully as below and it’s def the preferred method. Wondering if something similar can be one w the Daly.
