So for the wheels that have already cracked, it does not matter how destructive. If indeed there is a new batch wiht polycarbonate or polyethelyne cores then acetate should have no effect on the plastic, especially a 30 second droplet. If indeed your core was ABS and had not cracked yet then the 30 second droplet would liquify the surface to what I would guess would be about a milimeter in depth. I don’t know if there would be any deeper structural damage but you would potentially gain the knowlege that you are riding on ABS cores.
At this point its all speculation. If it were me, i would want to know if I were riding on a structurally unsound core that shared some of the characteristics of ABS and might actually be ABS.
But I’ll tell you what I’ll do. I’ll perform the acetate test on some TB cores and some ABS pipe and I’ll post a video.
I dont think I will be riding these wheels until there is an update on the core design. I love these wheels but the paranoia of one of these wheels failing in a critical point of flight takes away from the whole reason of skating. Maybe I’ll try out the tb 110s.
I was thinking, should this issue get it’s own thread so it’s more visible to the community and hidden in the post. Would hate to see someone get hurt again. What do you guys think?
So its definitely not ABS if the acetone did not liquify the plastic chip.
The manufacturer says it’s polycarbonate (PC) which would be the right choice.
The Acetone test demonstrates that the factory did not accidentally substitute ABS.
So the other possibility is tha some were poured with a poor quality PC or they were molded at the wrong temperature.
I suppose lose fitting adapters might be the best indicator of an early failure. That’s not saying that the tight fitting cores won’t eventually have the same failures.
Actually don’t, leave the stock setup. The spacer in there is very snug fitting against the bearings which is a good thing, its not going to compress against the core shell when tightened down. Change the bearings if you don’t like them but the spacer is good.
I want to invite @torqueboards into this thread. He might offer a coupon for the TB’s. I’ve been chatting with him in another thread. There I learned that the 90, 100 and 110 TB wheels all share the same cushy PU. The 97’s are the harder traditional PU. So if you are looking for an alternative to I-wonders, you would want to avoid the 97’s and focus on the other three sizes.
@torqueboards some people are now affraid to ride on thier i-wonders. Do you have some sort of incentive for these poor souls who already spent thier allowance?
I’m gonna tag on and offer to people who bought new iwonders and are scared to use them, I will help you dispose of them for free and you will get a rebate for 50% of the original purchase price.
One thing that you could try, which I think was suggested earlier in the thread, is to fill the spokes with something like this Window Weld or some other similar PU adhesive goo. I think this stuff is around 90A hardness, and at worst it would probably slow the catastrophic failure long enough to safely stop, and at best reinforce the core so it never happens in the first place. Obviously, front wheels would be easy to fill, back ones a little more challenging unless you wanted to basically glue a pulley in, but I’d rather have a rear wheel fail than a front wheel.
Update.
I had not checked this before…
One of my Zealous bearings I had taken out of the cloud wheels was totally seized up.
I can’t say for sure it was from the front wheel that broke. But it is from the board…
