Cheap FOCer 2 (Open-source, Low-cost, VESC 6 based ESC) (v0.9 Release. Beta testing ongoing)

Excellent documentation! Thanks so much.
I installed the free “Markdown Viewer” Chrome extension to view the readme.md files.
I mention this in case others also need it.

3 Likes

yes @shaman, excellent instructions - super easy to order!

Thank you for all the hard work.

7 Likes

I have finished V1 of my case, i also included a template for drilling, washers, and spacers if you don’t want to buy those parts.

12 Likes

Hey man, good work. Do you have and photos of a cheap FOCer in the case?

1 Like

Your ebike sounds very interesting, did you share info about it somewhere?

4 Likes

this is all i’ve seen of it. Think there might have been a pic of the bike too.

2 Likes

Added a photo to the thingiverse.

2 Likes

Great work mate… I’ll take a look at those

No haven’t shared much about it. It’s nothing special. Just a second hand steel frame mountain bike, a cheap hub motor from eBay, 4 hoverboard batteries, and whichever controller I’m testing.

4 Likes

fyi at this time, lcsc stock of mosfets is low:

4 Likes

Thanks for the heads up. LCSC runs out of stuff and then restocks often but it could be some time before they restock. I’m the mean time, we may need to hunt for an alternative source for the MOSFETs.

Digikey, mouser, and Arrow are nice but for sure aren’t going to have the low prices that LCSC does. AliExpress is cheap but can be questionable for electronic components.

EDIT:
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/MOSFET_Wuxi-NCE-Power-Semiconductor-NCEP60T18_C216780.html

Let’s do this one for now. It’s a little higher Rds(on) but not too bad. Its’ got decent stock right now.

4 Likes

Thanks @shaman for putting the FOCer together! Looks great. Got a set of 5 on order. Was surprised with how easy the SMT process from JLCPCB, going to have to try them in the future.

Getting a couple parts at arrow for the fast shipping and to get a board built while wait for LCSC.

60V 232A Fet: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/irfb7534pbf/infineon-technologies-ag
L1 Inductor: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/nr6045t220m/taiyo-yuden
Big cap: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/eeu-fs1j331l/panasonic
10uf 100V cap: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/22201c106kat2a/avx
4.7uf 100V cap: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/grm32dc72a475ke01k/murata-manufacturing
BMI160: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bmi160/bosch

3 Likes

how y’all gonna reflow those imu’s on? i think that’s the step that’s beyond my handy skills
edit gonna skip the imu for now

more n00b questions:

what is the thickness of the heat pad and the height of the nylon spacers featured in the assembly guide? i’d rather go with known good combo rather than have to try out varying dims. i guess it depends if the alternate sku mosfet is the same dims as the specified sku mosfet.

is there a test protocol to ensure that the smt populated board arrives having been correctly manufactured and pick-and-placed? that way, i can discard the board before taking the next steps of populating the board with the non-smt components

will purchasing the enig option make it too difficult for me to hand solder those components? i noticed they only offer tg130 fr4 which i might damage if i have to solder with high heat

is their “4-wire kelvin” testing useful to us? do i actually have to worry about components on one board knocking off components on adjacent boards or scratching the other board if i don’t request the paper-between-boards option?

3 Likes

reflowing the IMUs is generally done with a reflow station

Please check out the parts list from the repo that describes the hardware

I don’t have a procedure developed for this but I’ve never had an issue with JLCPCB’s services. If I get reports of flaws from JLCPCB, then I’ll look more into it.

No but ENIG isn’t required for this PCB. It’s generally only used when there are a lot of leadless ICs on board or if you need high resistance to corrosion. It’s not going to do much for you in the CFOC2 imo.

No. Just going through the ordering process exactly as the guide depicts should not have any problems.

5 Likes

thanks for putting this all together for us. sorry i missed the whole page you put up for the non-electronic parts, and thanks for putting up with my dumb questions

4 Likes

For the imu, ive been putting on paste, then heat gunning it without the chip, then stabbing at it with a corner of solder wick till none of the pads are shorted (also with heat gun), then heat gunning on the IMU while applying pressure. Ive had 4/6 work with this method, gonna have to go back and repair the remaining two.

The proper way to do it, is probably to get a solder paste dispenser with a microscopic tip.

2 Likes

“proper” way to solder the BMI160. I personally do the approach where you apply solder to the pads with a regular iron first and then apply the hot air. Flux is your friend.

8 Likes

Has any one tried connecting four of the “Cheap FOCer 2” via CAN-BUS? Or if it is possible.
I read some where up there that the termination resistors might need to be removed from the slaves!

1 Like

I’ve never tried connecting more than 2 VESC’s, but yes, I’m pretty sure you’ll want to lose the terminating resistors on all but the two end units.

1 Like

2 weeks of assembly later :triumph:

29 Likes