I’m pretty sure he meant riding.
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I have bn220 trucks and TB110s on a board for going 25-30mph. Weight 180lbs.
I also have a couple of analog cruising and pumping boards running caliber trucks I need bushings for. I’m thinking I’ll pickup a single bushing box and maybe a couple of extras, but I don’t know what exactly to get?
On my dkp board I run your wine red and grey 93/ 96 bushing box, and that’s work’s great.
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I’m looking to get all riptides in my setup, with what I’ve got and for 30-60kph with rough terrain and tight turning, what should I get?
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2 boards I’d like help with the bushings on:
The first is a Boosted Board with stock baseplates and hangars that I’ve tried the stock 86A barrel bushings with cup washers that I find to be too stiff and limit the turn radius too much. I’m currently running Orangatang orange nipples (85a) with flat washers on both ends and this is too loose as it gets squirrely at 20mph. I want a better turn radius without getting squirrely at 30mph. I’ve swapped out the wheels for 107mm, soon to be 105mm momentum wheels.
The second is a Killshot deck with 155mm pneumatics (six-shooters) on BN270 trucks. I’m currently running 93a durometer Venom barrels with cupped washers front and back, and find it to be too stiff. The turn radius on the board is abysmal. These trucks are setup 40/30 using Boardnamics adjustable baseplates. I have the option of setting angles to 0/15/30/40/50/60 degrees. I’d like a better turn radius without losing any high speed stability (again, 30mph)
I’m 185lbs, and would like to use WFB formula if possible, or Krank otherwise to allow for a range of response based on how hard I crank them down.
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I’m looking for a few options to try on a Tesseract with Caliber II 44s on 90mm 74a wheels. 160 lbs. They have the stock 89a blood orange barrels and cupped washers.
When I loosen them way up they feel pretty good except they have “play” right near center. On rough roads it will bounce slightly back and forth 2-3 times like the bushings aren’t really dampening before getting back to center.
If I tighten them up a half turn after I can’t turn the washer, the board returns to center quickly, but feels stiff and takes so much effort to turn.
The trails I ride are half flat, straight & rough, and half really twisty. I don’t mind if the board moves around at high speed, I actually prefer that so it soaks up the bumps, I just want it to snap back to center without wallowing around. I think I need a softer duro but not sure what shape or formula? Willing to try a bunch.
Hey Brad!
I am having an issue with the riptide bushings on my Hypertrucks, and I’m wondering if you have seen it before:
Basically on a hard lean, the tips of the bushings pop out of the bushing seat and get wedged under the edge of the seat. This makes it harder for me to tune my bushings to get the ride I’m looking for. Whenever I adjust the preload to something comfortable, the bushing slips and wedges in a slightly different location, changing the ride feel all over again.
I’ve seen this happen to lots of other folks with hypertrucks, usually with the softer bushings. I have tried harder bushings, but I have not been able to get them to ride how I want, even when they dont pop out of the bushing seat.
I’m considering several possible solutions to keep this from happening, but I’m wondering if you have seen this before and have any ideas for fixes? Of course, the best solution would be your singularity bushings, and I intend to buy some as soon as they are available! 
The specific issue I am currently experiencing is significant wobbles above 25mph, which are very difficult to control and ride out. My top speed is 35mph, and I would like to be able to ride up to that point without these wobbles, without sacrificing the deep turns/carves these trucks are so brilliant for.
Context:
Hypertrucks
Haero Bro deck (30° front and read tip angle)
Blue bushings in front - mild preload (not sure how to quantify this)
White bushings in rear - mild preload
275lbs with gear
Top speed 35mph, but I usually stay below 30mph.
Lots of carving and deep turns
Thanks in advance!
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any suggestions for riptide bushings for my setup? I have time today to go get a new set.
Maybe some longer grubs to keep them in? I have the radium extended ones maybe they are longer then the OE hypertruck one.
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Oh for context on preload maybe guess measure the gap you have on the bushing holder
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Hey guys I have been a bit preoccupied with large orders from Europe and Asia, i will try to get to your questions later this week…
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Hi this is an audience participation question too if people other than Brad want to give input. I want to get a grab bag or sample set of bushings, but the Riptide kit isn’t sold at my usual skate place sickboards.nl and it also has customisation options. On paper that’s great - only get what you want AND get it at a bulk discount - but I don’t know what I want 
. @RipTideSports do you folks sell pre-rolled sample kits at all, or do you know any European place you do supply them to? Shipping across the Atlantic makes it not really worth it for an individual order
Sickboards do have a Venom kit that covers a decent range - and for my purpose seems more attractive because it goes down to softer duros. But are there other factors like venom shape Vs Riptide shape that make the softness not comparable?
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IIRC Riptide’s website mentions that their formulas are on the soft side, so you’d need to go one or two sizes up the duro chart to match the duro feel on other bushings.
For the same durometer, the APS will turn 10% to 15% more than the same durometer of other brands.
WFB will turn 15% to 20% more than the same durometer of other brands (So buy accordingly).
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Ah thanks, that’s almost exactly what I was looking for
EVO deck with effective base plate angles of 45/15 and a rider of 150-160 lbs I would suggest a pair of KranK Barrels in the following durometers, 87, 90 and 93. also pick ups some of our Small Flat Washers and Large cup washers so you have additional tuning options. Start with the 87’s up front and the 90’s in back, If you need more, try a 87/90 front and a 90/93 rear, if still not to your liking, go to a 90/90 front and a 93/93 rear fine tuning with the cups and flats through the process.
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It’s a Switchblade deck I’m on but otherwise yeah I’ll grab them and see what’s good! Thanks! I already have the Grey KranK 93A from Boardnamics so I’ll use those.
What do you weigh, what are your base plate angles, what issues are you having with the current setups? Concentrate on one setup at a time and if we get that one right you can apply what you have learned to the other setups
OK @MiniChopper4Me, with the Boosted, just try running flat washers in front and cups in the back to allow the front to turn a bit easier than the back. That will solve a lot of your issues
For the Killshot, you have a bit of experimenting to do to find your sweet spot. I like to set boards up loose to take advantage of a high lean angle while reducing the turn angle so I rarely like to go above 40 degrees up front. Having the rear to 30 is fine but I like a higher differential like a 15 rear. If you are using soft enough bushings to allow the trucks nearly full lean, you will pick up the turning radius you are looking for. I would start with KranK Barrels: 87a up front and 90 in the back with both cups and flats available for fine tuning. Get a set of 93 also if you go really shallow in the rear or want a tighter setup in the rear
Is this an eSk8 or analog board
Ok symmetrical deck angles, 60a up front and 70a in the back. The main reason for the bushings escaping the seats is they are too soft for your weight. Urethane does not compress, it just changes shape and that is what is happening. I would de-wedge the rear truck at least 10 degrees and wedge the front the same so you end up with a 40/20 split. This will make a world of difference. You will likely need harder (Green or Grey) bushings for the rear and move the whites up front. I have often drilled holes in the bushings to get a more linear feel out of them which works great to make the response morn linear when using harder bushings which allow the urethane someplace to go besides escaping the bushing walls.
This is how I modify them. do this at your own risk!
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esk8 - 25-30mph is where I notice the issue
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