Any update to this? I’m especially interested in getting your thoughts on how to stabilize the Wowgo, which always feels difficult to do without sacrificing turning.
It would really help me if you gave me only one setup to work on and condensed the info as much as possible. Ca you provide a quick review of where you are at with the Wowgo?
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Hey, idk if I am missing something, but I don’t see a suggestion?
Sorry, I was replying the the wrong response.
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@RipTideSports All good, sorry for the confusion.
Let me know what you think I should run when you get the chance to!
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No problem! I currently use Paris 90a barrel/cones, but they’re unstable during tucks (they’re manageable elsewhere, if not a little squishy). I used to run Venom HPF 87a/90a barrel/cones, but those impacted turning and pumping too much. Looking for something slightly more stable than the Paris, but less stiff than the Venoms.
Hey @RipTideSports attempting to fit tb218 hanger into a roadrider 45 deg baseplate. The stock pivotcup is a few mm too long, can I cut it to fit or do you have something to fit? Thanks 
Try using the Cones in front and the Barrels in back to start with. I am sorry for the late realization that I made this suggestion to another by mistake
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You may have missed it above but cross platform pivot applications can be complex and very time consuming and my absence from this thread is an good indicator that I do not have any time to take away from production since we are so backlogged with orders.
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No worries I actually assumed that was for me anyway so I’ve been trying that setup. It’s better, but still feels like it could be improved.
Should I try angled riser somewhere, different bushings, both?
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Hey Brad, would appreciate some input here-
Board is finished and assembled. I tried flat washers all around, per your advice, but it got wobbly quick. Put both cup washers back onto the rear truck.
Went on a 10 mile ride last night and had speed wobbles starting at ~22mph / 35 km/h.
- Trucks: Boardnamics 220 RKP precision trucks w/ 50/40 split fixed baseplates.
- Bushings: Boardnamics light grey 93a KranK barrels and 96A pivot cups
- Washers: 2x cups in rear, 2x flats in front.
- Deck: LY Drop Carve
- Weight: 190 lbs
Only thing I can think of is to tighten down the rear truck, or try the cup washers on the front again. I could swap the 40 deg rear BN baseplate for a randal 35 baseplate, but that’ll affect motor clearances.
I could also practice more.
Any other suggestions?
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Get some 5 degree angled risers and drop bot the front and back 5 degrees and run a 45/35 split
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Sorry Brad I’m not following 100%. Does that mean 45 front and 35 back? And if they’re both 50 stock does that mean one 5 degree riser on the front and 3 on the back to get those figures?
And lastly is the thin part of the wedge facing forwards for both trucks?
Yes, from above you said
Place the wedges so both front and back kingpin are more vertical (less horizontal)
Brad’s comments means 45 front, 35 rear (you always want more angle in the front).
I have BN fixed precision baseplates - they are fixed at 50 front, 40 rear (two different baseplates).
With my setup, I’d need a 5 deg angled riser on each baseplate.
This is the usual wedge guide:
To create less angle (aka turn less), 50->45, on the Front, I’d need a 5 deg wedge with the thinnest end towards the center of the board (the blue wedge in left side of the diagram).
To create less angle (aka turn less), 40>35, on the Back, I’d need a 5 deg wedge with the thinnest end towards the center of the board (the blue wedge in right side of the diagram).
If you have 50 deg baseplates all around, you’d need a 5 deg wedge riser on the front, and a 15 deg wedge riser on the back. At that point, you’re probably better off changing baseplates than have such a high angle on a riser pad. It can easily bend the fasteners you use to mount your truck to your deck, and that’s a big safety hazard.
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Roger. Thanks mate 
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Hey Brad,
I recently purchased some Tunnel Risers from you and cant quite get the supplied screws/nuts to work out. It seems like the threads don’t line up and any attempt to screw them together results in ‘re-threading’ the screw before it seizes up and refuses to go any further.
From the damage to the fasteners, it looks like the nuts and the fasteners are a different pitch. You might try some other screw/nuts you have laying around to see what else might (easily) thread into the lock nuts. But there’s no reason the threads on the fasteners should be destroyed like that during installation - they’re probably different sizes.
You need new screws, if not new nuts as well.
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Wholly crap @DKAY , I wonder how many of those went out. The nuts you have are 10-24 and they should be 10-32. We checked our supply and our supplier sent us a mixed bag…ugh. Send me an email at brad@riptidesports and we will send replacement nuts and screws.
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That’s nuts 
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