Bushing and Truck Setup Help Offered

Keep the bigger or harder bushing boardside

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is it possible to achieve both? I guess there will be compromises

Stability and agility is what we re all about

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Thanks. Just curious, you didn’t mention using chubby bushings, what use-case are they good for and would it be worth be trying them? I ask because on your site you’ve got a krank set where I can buy at least 4 different types of kranks, but your saying I need to just stick to barrells, all the other will be a waste of money?

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I try to keep it as simple as possible here, and affordable Shape matters and with Chubbys, resistance can goe way up and depending on what you are looking for, you can use a softer duro for a more plush feel. It can get very complicated quickly.

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ok, i’ll try what you suggested initally then. Thanks again

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Hi @RipTideSports,

Looking for bushings & pivot cups suggestions for the following:

  • Omakase deck
  • BN220 hangers + Caliber II 50º baseplates + 85mm caguamas
  • 90kg

Not planning to go over 30-35kmh as this build is just to cruise around, not meant for speed.

I currently have the red bushings & black pivot cups from the Caliber trucks which are almost hard plastic :sweat_smile: also 93/96A krank fatcone & tall fatcone from previous build (but i think fatcone are too fat indeed, they only fit upside-down in the hanger holes so i might need new ones).

Many thanks!!

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@RipTideSports did you have any chance to look at my post? :sweat_smile: many thanks in advance!

Hey @RipTideSports! I was hoping you could give me some advice on what bushings, pivot cups, and washers I should get.

  1. I am using bn270 trucks, on bn adjustable baseplates.
  2. N/A doesn’t come with bushings
  3. N/A
  4. I would like the board to be loose and carve-y enough to ride around people on campus, yet stable enough to reach around the top speed of 35mph. (I hope this is possible as I love a lively board and carving, but also need to keep up with some traffic to get to campus)
  5. Bustin Sportster with 6in tires. Wheel bite possibility should be low with these wide trucks.
  6. Around 170lbs

Also what baseplate angles you would recommend for this setup?
Thank you.

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Sorry I have been absent from here due to production and R&D efforts…not enough time to do it all. I will try to weigh in here soon.

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FatCones are designed so the smaller diameter go into the bushing seat and the large diameter goes against the large flat washer against the base plate. 50 degree symmetrical setups are hard to go fast on since they are so twitchy and turn a lot for the amount of lean you get. I would suggest de-wedging the front truck 5 degrees and the rear at least 10 degrees to settle down the setup a bit and use KranK 90a Barrels front and back with cup washers on the back bushings and flat washers on the front bushings.

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What angles are available to use?

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@RipTideSports I believe the options are 0, 15, 30, 40, 50, and 60

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HI @RipTideSports I’m looking to convert my wiggly DKP board to RKP.
I could steal the bushings and pivot cups off my old Boosted but they are five or six years old and have more than 2000km on them maybe it’s time to replace em?
What would you recommend that has a similar feel?

Edit: Thinking about it I may not have given you enough info to make a recommendation for me so…
My new board is this one: The Demon 2.0 – Propulsion Boards
It’s much longer, heavier and more ridgid than the boosted was.
It came with DKP trucks but I’m really not liking them - they feel squirrely when I speed up and I wiped out the other day from wobbles.
Rather than try to get used to them I’m converting to RKP.
I’ve bought boardnamics 220mm hangers and paris clone baseplates.
Boardnamics provides a riptide pivot cup already but I need your recommendation on what bushings to get.
My goal is a similar feel I had with my Boosted on which I’ve never fallen in 2000km of riding.
Being heavier and more rigid than the Boosted I imagine I will need somewhat more rigid bushings.
I weigh 200 lbs.
The Boosted had 50 degree trucks. I’m not sure if the base plates coming from boardnamics will be 43 degree or 50 degree or what. Perhaps @Boardnamics can help me answer that.
Edit: 50 degree.

OK @russoa20 what angle splits have you used before? I will respond more fully tomorrow once I have an idea what angles you have ridden before.

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@RipTideSports , on my first board (Blank Freeride Longboard DIY Electric Build Favorite This deck with calibers, all stock bushings.)
I previously ran standard 50/50. I then got the angled riser from @BuildKitBoards to dewedge the rear
(edit:) It is a 6 degree wedge, so 50/44.
After this change the board felt a little more stable. Only problem is the board never really carved the way I would like it too before or after then dewedge.

Hi Brad @RipTideSports,

I have a BKB single with the 31" Tayto deck.

Caliber II clones 50 Degree both front and rear. 10” wide but the gap between the rear wheels is 1/8 wider than standard due to spacing for the motor.

Running 107mm ABEC11 74a superflys with 1/2" risers.

Bushings are 86A, shape and dimensions as below:




Washers:

I find I have to crank the trucks up pretty tight to stop speed wobbles, at the expense of turning ability. The straight line stability in particular is terrible - the trucks seem to have a lot of ‘play’ when centred and I have to make them pretty tight to get rid of that. I guess I want what everyone wants - stability at speed but be able to learn the board over for nice smooth carving, and tighter turning arc at low speed. I weigh 70kg.

Appreciate your advice on any component change to achieve this. Bushings, washers, pivot cup etc.

Cheers.

Try using both barrels in the back and the cones up front to start with

Hey, @RipTideSports any updates on what I should run?

Have you tried what I suggested?