We make a 12.7mm bushing which is the Street height and the ShortStreet is 10.2mm
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Yes, I like to do that also. Its where I bought my first set of riptides. It was cheaper than on-line becasue there were no shippnig charges and the cost was in Canadian dollars.
But they never restocked for months after I purchased and now all the retailers are shuttered.
For what its worth, my suggestion is to offer a few more bulk packages through your distributors. Spending $20 to equip one board with riptides is no big deal. But some of us have collections so its hard to justify spending $100 or more on a handful of urethane bits. Even if I really like your urethane bits.
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We have attempted the kit approach in the past and every retailer wanted something differentā¦it was a nightmare
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I weigh around 55kg. I donāt know the durometer of either the āParis cloneā which are my favorite, or the stock bushings. I tried researching the stock ones, only information I could gather is āthey are garbageā and āunknown durometerā.
But ideally what I want from my ride is high speed stability. Carving for me is not a priority. If I need to hit tight corners at low speed I either tic-tac or lean heavily.
I think although I weigh about as much as a feather, I would like high durometer bushings.
Thanks for your advice 
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Good bushings are just about the heart of a good rideā¦
If you have the money to have an esk8 collection, surely you have the money to spend on their bushing maintenance?
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Thanks! I went ahead and purchased that. I was hoping to get help with my other board. Running stock TB218s with stock baseplates, 93a HPF Venoms, all barrel except for a cone in the front, all cupped washers. Iām about .75 inches from wheelbite and weigh 179 now.
I was hoping to feel more gradual pressure. Right now, the pressure is exponential rather than something more linear. It feels wobbly at center then gives too much pushback/rebound. I want more consistent feedback. I still want some straightline stability at 25+mph, but Iām more interested in smooth carving at 18mph. Thanks!
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Is this the revel kit you are referring to?
Due to the fixed nature of the truck angle at 50deg of the motor hanger, you are just limited to changing the bushings for that truck, of which Brad can advise. You basically canāt do anything about the angle of the hanger.
However, in order to have max stability at high / max speed, I suggest flipping the motors to the front of the deck, set the remote to reverse, and purchase a lower angle baseplate from:
- Paris for the free rolling wheels which will now form the rear, while using bushings from Brad (again he will advise).
(https://shop.paristruckco.com/collections/accessories/products/paris-43-savant-baseplate)
- Or if you can obtain something lower that from Randal (https://randal.com/comp-and-dh-35-base-plate/) buy you must install the King Pin separately (https://randal.com/steel-king-pin/), and get bushings from Brad.
Iām confident of the 1st option because Brad had advised me to go that route for another deck. Lower angles at the rear will give you high stability.
This setup is guaranteed to give you high speed stability, because I am riding like this myself. There are other small adjustments you can make - like adding wedged riser pads to lower the angle of the rear truck further.
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I weigh around 120lbs, stock caliber clones from bkb, ly osteon 2017 deck, stock cone/barrel atm. I want the ride to feel a bit more lively but stable at high speeds. Carving and turning feels pretty dead right now. I am a very fast and aggressive rider who floors the throttle every chance I get but I also try to carve a bit when at high speeds. I also was looking to change the bushings on my stock ly dinghy (push board). On that I have the stock polar bear tkp trucks with stock barrel / cone setup. I wanted something a little more carvy and a smaller turning radius. Thanks for this, I really appreciate it. Stay safe!
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I will be weighing in on these questions and comments soon, I have been stuck in production the last week and weekend making more Lacroix parts and othersā¦we have not slowed down muchā¦
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OK @BearBoi, hard it is. Stock Cone / Barrels are normally around 90a and for you weight I would rarely suggest even that hardness let alone going up a durometer. Try 2 pair of KranK 93a barrels and get some flat washers to use with them. You might want one or two cupped washers for the rear and you can most likely use the cups you currently have on the barrels of the stock bushings
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For your stock Caliber BKB clones, that both Barrels and put them in back and run the Cones up front to see how that feels, might get you where you want to be. As for the LY dinghy and Polar Bears, they have a very tight bushing seat and thy can take our Street Height both top and bottom. I would suggest StreetCones up front and a StreetCone / StreetBarrel in back in KranK 84a. Just order two pairs of KranK 84 StreetCones and ask us to make one pair a mix of a StreetCone and a StreetBarrel in the order notes. I also suggest replacing the pivot cups wit our WFB 96a.
@Fromualdez since you have just placed an order for one of the setups, can we wait till it arrives to be sure we got that recommendation right? If we did, great, if not we can make adjustments to the new recommendation based on your feedback.
Thank you, will try that and report back how it goes. And I agree, my current cups should work, I also have a few more washers at home of varying shapes/sizes. Will report back how it goes 
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- Mbs ats 12
- Stock bushings
- A looser ride
- Offroad
- Mbs core 90 deck with no wheel bite
- 150
I got all my bushings. Just wanted to confirm that the canons are boardside and the chubbys/fatcone are roadside. Havenāt tested them yet, but I canāt wait, thx again for the quote!
And I might add the shipping was fast af. 2days. Good job all around
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No, the other way around, the larger shapes go in the load bearing position, boardside!
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Pshhhhhhhh what a fail on my part
glad I checked, thx
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