OK @Agressivstreetlamp a couple of things first. The color of the bushings does not look like ours but it could be just picture color shift. If they are in fact RipTide, I would guess 97.5a boardside and 95a roadside front and back. You appear to be running a symmetrical bushing set up on an asymmetrical board. Running the same bushings on an EVO with the effective base plate angles being 65 (50+15) in the front and 35 (50-15)in the rear if your EVO has a 15 degree wedge and de-wedge will allow the rear to turn easier than the front. First thing to try is put the greens in the back and the reds up front. Three threads is not a good measure of compression but it is likely too much so when you rearrange the positions of the bushings, tighten until all the slop is out of the stack as a starting point. What is your weight?
About 190 fubs
@RipTideSports I apologize in advance if this is common knowledge in terms of bushing setup, Iām pretty new to esk8/ downhill etc. So given the same setup front and back roadside and boardside (ex 93.5a barrel bushing for all). If the board is not symmetric (evo falcon, subsonic century) would this result in the front being looser than the back given the larger angle in the front? Or vice versa? I was under the impression the greater the angle youād have more freedom to turn/ carve etcā¦ Again also assuming both are tightened about the same. Thanks again in advance really appreciate your knowledge on the topic thus far.
OK, try what I suggested aboveā¦wait, what are āfubsā?
Hey @ahrav, the effective base plate angle determines how much leverage you have over the bushings. All things being equal except for base plate angle, the higher the angle, the lower the leverage you have over the bushings. In a split set up where the front is steeper than the rear, you need to balance out the higher leverage the rear truck has compared to the front truck. The more extreme the difference the more you need to compensate to balance out the system. This can be accomplished several ways.
You can use a smaller shapes bushing up front compared to the rear and keep the same durometer for all the bushings like a cone / cone front and cone / barrel rear, or cone / barrel front and barrel / barrel rear or barrel / barrel front and barrel / chubby rear and so on.
You can also use different durometers front and back to balance the system like KranK 87 up front and KranK 90 on the back. The bigger the split, the bigger the duro difference you will need.
Often overlooked are you washer choices, you can compensate for a split by using flat washers up front and cupped in the back with all the same duro. This allows the front more freedom to move with compensates for the split in base plate angles. The usually works for less than a 10 degree difference in angles
Hope this helps!
@RipTideSports that more than helps. Iām not sure the advice couldāve been any better. Thanks again for the time and knowledge.
@RipTideSportsj
hey, would really love some help with my chaotic setupā¦
im running an evo with surfrodz tkp trucks.
the front baseplate is adjustable and set to eliminate the nose wedge. its mounted on the baseplates outer mounting holes to reduce the increased wheelbase that comes with the tkp.
the rear is keeping the evos angle, but the wheelbase there was also reduced by drilling new holes in the deck.
im weighting 178 pounds, and i like my bushings on the softer side.
this is what i have available atm, a mix of 90a and 84 bushings,
the right two stacks being my current setup.
i got the 90a because i saw you recommended them to an evo rider that had similar weight, but felt they were too unresponsive for me by a lot, so i went and got the 84a because back on my ecaliber trucks i was allways running the softest otang nipples basicallyā¦
however i have a second build sporting a jet spud, and there the 90a feel more workable!
so, the rear setup right now actually feels very stable but goes dead quickly if i tighten the bushings a bit too hard (sorry for abusing your fatcone like that 
)
what im looking for is improving the turnability of the front truck, without being too prone to wobbling on small bumps / at speed.
that being said, i wouldnāt mind trying something different if you suggested so!
@RipTideSports Iām back for more words of wisdom this time a little more specific. I general what do you recommend for a setup to go pretty fast (38mph+) and have a decent ability to carve. With anything Iām sure there are trade offs when it comes to this setup but why would the general setup be. Just straight barrel everywhere? Again asymmetric board setup. (Evo falcon and subsonic century). Thanks again.
Wow, this is a bit chaotic, can you post some pictures of the actual bushings and the front and rear trucks? I need to get a full picture of what you are working with before I hit the reset button. I really resist going by color. Do you know the duros you bought and why you bought them?
@ahrav please consolidate what you have, I think you were using a hypothetical above calling out 93.5a, a duro we do not make
Sorry so I currently have 92.5 barrel and chubby, 95 barrel, 90 barrel and chubby, and I also have 90 kranks. Hahah I sorta just hopped onto your site and said fuck it and threw shit in the cart and thatās what I have now 
OK, so based on what I said about the theory of compensation by shape, doro or use of washers, what do you think you should do? My goal here is for you to direst the concepts for your own advantage. Lay it out and start with the effective base plate angles, the trucks you are using and a list of bushings you have at your disposal and I will help you fine tune it if needed.
@RipTideSports sounds good. Initial plan I was gonna go with was 92.5 chubby boardside/ 92.5 barrel roadside in the rear and 90/90 barrel in the front. With the back angle being 35 front 65. And then see how it feels/ make adjustments. Given the difference between back and front is 30 degrees will that setup described above be enough of a difference to balance out the system. Additionally you had mentioned a washer could be the equivalent of a 10 degree angle difference is there a general rule of thumb in terms of duro as well? If you were planning on simply using duro to balance the system (ex 2.5a for 10 degree angle etc )
Good, I like what you have done . 30 degrees is a big split and you might want to de-wedge the front a bit to bring it closer to 45 to 50. I jut fined a 60 degree front too twitchy for my tasteā¦I like to get some lean into my turns and rail it a bit! I am not really big on rules, this is skateboarding and itās bigger than rules The washer functionality depends a lot on what compound your are using and like I said less than 10 degrees in most cases
Thanks a lot again. I know I really appreciate your time as Iām sure most everyone else does as well.
Interestingly enough that this conversation comes up just as Iām encountering a similar conundrumā¦ Iām playing around with a board with wildly differing split anglesā¦ I mocked it up on 75-35 splits and I cannot make the front work with the backā¦ Iāll drop out the front wedge so it will be closer to 60-35 and try thatā¦
thanks
75 DEGREES YIKESā¦I am working on a high lean system so turns will feel banked, more on that if I ever figure this shit outā¦I am close
Yupā¦ You know me dude, Iām king of the weird/unusual setupsā¦ I started with a 50 degree baseplate, put it on a 15 degree slanted front nosed deck, i needed a riser so I added a wedgeā¦ the kingpin is almost horizontal, and turns like shitā¦ turns off the back foot 35 degree truckā¦ but it has a kicktailā¦
sorry, after reading that again i realized what a messy wall of text that was, i rushed it out at work
i cleaned up the post and added a few pictures, i hope its better now
Just wanted to come back and than you for the advice. Did as you say and the carvability is way up.
WIll come back with a 30+ test.
feels like it should