Pivot cup falls right out of the hole when brand new. In fact when hanger is installed and removed the cup will come right out with hanger pivot head
After a while of use cup seems to expand enough that it will stay on baseplates when disassembled
I wasn’t able to notice and side to side play but yes. I feel like fitment should be some how a little tighter 
As for measurement on baseplate hole goes. You’re right. I was able to clock up to 17.95-98mm at some point. Just don’t want to give you the wrong info lol
Wouldnt this all be avoided if pivot cup dimensions were accessible?
I am well acquainted with the struggles of measuring the pivot cup hole
Not really
Agree with riptide
That would just make things more complicated lol
@RipTideSports no worries brother. I got your back We homies 
strong disagree but its ok
Haha. I hear ya brother. See. Real problem is not many know how nor do they own a caliper to take complicated measurements
Then people are not wanna start guessing on dimensions and ordering a bunch of parts hoping they get the right one. “Shit they’re expensive “
Standard hole diameter is easier for everyone imo🤷🏻♂️
Oh I like how everything is linked to names of the trucks, helps the customers a ton. But dimensions would be beneficial for anyone wanting to make new trucks thats all.
Otherwise its guess work since calipers aren’t better than technical drawings which is probably why this issue exists. Speaking from experience lol.
Haha. Can’t argue with you on that department
I’m a consumer not a manufacturer
Sizing of pivot cups is part science, part engineering, part faith and all pain. Often our pivot cups are not the same size as stock by design. Often the reason for this to take into consideration the variance in the casting of the hanger pivot and the drilling of the hole in the base plate. We try to take into consideration the factory tolerances of cast trucks and most of the time they work but in those rare occasions the trucks and the pivots are at the outer reaches of their respective tolerance or one or the other is outside the acceptable tolerance the will not work. Ideally, there is an interference fit between the pivot cup and the hole in the base plate so the pivot stays in the base.
Appreciate this thread, here’s my set up:
OK, thanks @shaz, I would get a pair of KranK Cannons and Magnums in 93a, should suit you fine for what you want to do. Start with a symmetrical setup Canon / Magnum with the Magnum boardside if you want an all around set up. If you want to run a bit faster, run both Magnum’s in the back and the Canon’s up front
@CiscoV Please PM me with your address and I will send you a pair at the high end of the tolerance to see if that will work
Would shrink wrap around the cup work or would it just disintegrate?
that is actually an interesting idea and in cases of a lot of slop, heat-shrink tubing might work well. We are trying to get to the TB tolerance numbers.
@torqueboards @Kellag Here is my 35d baseplate with riptide pivot cup
EDIT: this is my 50 degree baseplate and 35 degree isn’t much better Fml
Haha yup my shit is the same, loose as a goose
Hello Brad,
I’ve been riding my board a while now and could use some pointers.
I do love going fast, but only in bursts. Id say something around the 20 mph range is common but the board is capable of up to 40 (hit 32 on my current setup). Right now everything feels super tight, but not very carvable at all. Its nice at speed but pretty terrible when going slow . Its also generally super difficult to turn , requires a lot of force, I’d like to keep the top end stable, but see if I can gain some carvability.
Current:
which are GREENS Barrels board side
REDS Barrels ground side
with maybe 3 threads showing
Pivot cups are black
standard evo 36 with 3/4" riser and no wedges
all bushings are from riptide (except possible reds)
TB218 trucks
107s now, soon to be tb110s
Picture has the old wheels
