Brently's Boards

I’m thinking about the HT lite as well. Should be an improvement over the M2 for sure.

I also want more range and 12s5p isn’t enough. I have a 12s4p in my proto now and i want at least 35 miles of “fun miles”.

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still running my 3+ year old 12s6p 30Q pack I don’t think this board would even do 15 “fun” miles

I had to resolder one of the series connections already, I should prob open her up again

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Baby’s first welds, tell me how bad they are

Do I count as a “builder” now?

Wiring will be done next week, hyped to get my lil commuter going

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welds look good, but stacking nickel is il-advised

with the amount of cross-sectional area you have there, you shouldn’t need it

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I was gonna yell at you for double stacked nickel but it seems my dad already did. Especially for a commuter.

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School me bros why is stacking nickel ill advised, I was under the impression it’s better for current flow

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Welds typically turn out much weaker. Are you stacking 0.2 or 0.15?
As for current, that wide nickel should have no problem doing whatever you’re throwing at it.

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0.15

Learned from a ebike batt builder so high currents for longer periods are more common I guess :man_shrugging:t3:

oh .15x30 is plenty. I run a 12s3p p42a pack with .15x30 at 70 battery amps all day

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@Evwan and @jack.luis

I’ve been thinking about this…

I welded three layers of 0.15 on top of one another not all at once. Meaning first I welded one layer then added a second welded that then a third and welded that. So I didn’t just put three pieces on top and try to weld all the way thru all three layers.

That shouldn’t lead to weaker weld right? Just more work than might have been necessary for esk8 currents?

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If you have a solid connection to begin with and you’re just adding layers for extra then why not.

I haven’t had any issues with a single layer of 0.15, even with double stacked packs. I’ve built many packs though that I thought needed extra and have added layers to assist.

She’ll be right mate!

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hey guys finally got all my pieces together for the commuter - can someone remind me what VESC tool version I need to work on FW 5.2? (bonus points if you have a link I can download it from)

I have a makerx DV4 for this build and FW5.2 seems to be hardcoded to it or something - when I try to update it in bootloader on the new VESC tool it still gives me error messages (even after trying to individually update both sides with USB vs CAN)

just gotta tune it and test it and shes done

all my wires and connections are overspec (IE large IK)

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Broke out the old 20s bro today, saw my 20s5p extender for my surron in the corner and had an idea



Would be a combined 20s9p :joy: what’s that in esk8 miles? 100?

Could be a fun future project… anyway big shout out to @YUTW123 after my dv4 popped he gave me a hell of a deal on a dv6. So that commuter will finally be rolling shortly.

Does anyone know how to work the momentary switch on them? When I press it nothing happens it just says on.

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Try the latest firmware, older makerx firmware has issues
6.0 has worked great on my makerx escs, just remember to raise your abs max current after motor detection
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XbWnSGchvoZw7U39kw6P3xYjjLkh_b7m/view?usp=sharing

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Thanks :pray:t2:

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You gotta turn on a shut off time on the Vesc tool .

Then it will click off.

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Esk8 bros - I’m in the semi finals of shreddiemcskate’s contest to win a $1k extended swing arm for my sur ron. If you could shoot me a vote at the link below I would be forever grateful (and buy you a beer)

https://instagram.com/stories/shreddiemcskate/3051504242884580512?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igshid=NTdlMDg3MTY=

^if clicked on mobile it’ll take you to the guys story holding the contest, all you gotta do is vote for me:


It’s the one part I can’t justify spending the money but want pretty damn bad.

Appreciate ya’ll

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Tiny wheels…

So what does that do?

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More nimble in corners / more tq

… slightly harsher ride / lower potential top speed ha

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