Boss level custom spot welder

I’m having the same issue. How many mm did you have to space the pen? Mine blows a hole in 0.15mm nickel on cells like every third time, even if I apply good pressure. I tried spacing the tips out 4mm and I’m still having the problem.

I am pretty sure it works. I have seen people using supercaps at endless-sphere for spot welding

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i didnt spread them out that far, maybe like 2-3mm at most. have you been maintaining your tips? use sand paper and clean them up and sand them into a point.

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Kweld sell a pcb option which would work

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This worked. Thanks

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Yes. It works. A friend of mine uses caps with all his welders. Boss included.

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Did you prep both mating surfaces as in sand bright first? My 110 v. welder spot melts the rails nicely together.90% of s.weld problems are because laziness on the prep.The other 10% is dirty/melted tips.,I’ve even welded Chi-com scope rails to the side with mine pre rivet. welderreview. com

I usually rub gently the tips with sandpaper. I do not prep the strips but make sure they are flat and clean.

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Have you guys seen this system. Looks like it can handle a Lot of current ? 0.2mm Nickel strips and 0.3mm copper on top. What do people think ?
https://a.aliexpress.com/BSWamMDE

looks like a nese system.

I tried soldering a couple different small 5V fans to this port, but neither worked. Are they just supposed to turn on when the unit turns on? Not sure what I’m doing wrong.

They work ONLY when the set temperature is reached. Also that port is only 5v.
I recommend you to put a huge heatsink or use decent fans. I did a how to long time ago.
Here:

At the old forum and also endless-sphere some users put a big heatsink.
In my opinion fans are more efficient.

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Yeah, I already have some pretty big heat sinks on there, but they weren’t quite enough. I saw your fan mod, but since you had a separate power supply for the fans, I didn’t know how the on-board fan works. I wonder why it’s not designed to be on all the time. Thank you for the tip though!

If my one 5V fan doesn’t do the job for me, I’ll just try a couple of 12V fans like you did :slight_smile:

If you want it to be on all the time set a max temperature value very low. You must stick the fan to the heatsinks placed on the aluminium plate heading the air flow to your heatsinks.
Usually the sticker of the fan is the direction.
It’s cool enough for thin nickel or slow pace welds. Big heat sinks are really efficient as long as you have them properly stuck on the plate with thermal silicone. Seems some members use just the heatsinks. No fans at all. Again they must be stuck properly with thermal silicone.
I have ZERO experience on big heatsinks since I have bet on fans since minute one.
I used the 5v for a very short time. I weld copper often so I want it to be small (short heatsinks) and cool(24v fans). I never reach 50° celsius with my method. Not even with copper.

This is what I did to mine. Credits to @thisguyhere.

Edit.

I’ll upload the correct images. Sorry.

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Seems Lee invented a new toy
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Good morning, everyone,
I have a problem with my hump level, namely the regulation of the soldering iron which does not work anymore…after 100 degrees the breakdown becomes bright red…
Has this ever happened to you before?

Make sure the connector is plugged tight. Try to unplug and plug again firmly. That could be the cause

I’ve tried the technique, but it still doesn’t do anything about it. It is beyond a setting of 135 degrees that the iron failure becomes red … and I also hear when I set beyond 130 degrees a noise coming from the S2 a TICTICTICTICTIC… and the more I increase the temperature the more the noise is perceptible.
Thanks

Mail lee. He will know