So I can cut the end of this and splice it to the wire that came with the boss spot welder? It doesn’t matter which wire is soldered to which right or is there some sort of polarity issue here?
Foot pedal from cheap sunko
With the stock connector from the mini sport welder
Then I can use the foot pedal? Just want to make sure I don’t somehow overlook something and connect the wrong wires because it didn’t seem to matter to me
Should work. I don’t know about that pedal. Normally open or normally closed… I bought a 3€ one from aliexpress. Used it for a while, then I got used to automatic mode and never used it again. Automatic is the best.
They work like an arcade button. They have 3 ports and you connect one to the line and the other one to no or nc.
Usually doesn’t matter the order.
If you cut the wire of that pedal you will probably have to test several combinations if it has 3 wires and will probably be a plug and play if it has two.
Double posting in case someone knows and it doesn’t check other place
I am trying to weld 0.1mm copper to 0.15 nickel, using a 4s lipo pack (4x2s 60c rating).
I’ve experienced a problem which led me to replacing the tips which did not help. The problem was there before and after changing probes.
Basically I can make a good weld, but only on one probe…
One side is fused and the other is weak and not fused.
Any ideas? Thanks
I thought it was my 3s graphene, but the problem followed to this new, strong 4s pack.
One probe making better weld than the other is normal. Try to tweak flux time, gap between tips and pressure. Make sure lipo is fully charged.
What times are you using? X2?
First of all, find a hard surface.
A thick piece of aluminium is perfect as the strips don’t weld on it.
It is normal for this type of spot welding to get a larger weld nugget on the positive probe than the negative.
There are a few things you can do to combat that but first start with a hard surface.
Thanks will try this
Yes fully charged they are 4 x 2s hardcase lipos, 2 in series 2 in parallel, so 60c rating should be doubled, I cannot imagine a power issue…
I have increased bit by bit to 14ms for copper. I was using a piece of silicone underneath to stop blackening, maybe that is not a good surface.
Is flux the setting on the bottom left or the bTm middle ?
Flux times are the ms
I use 7-9ms x2 multiplier for 0.1 copper. 14ms is too much with my lipo setup. It seems it’s the setting you need with yours. How did you wire the series and parallel? The amps loss is huge if you use thin and long wires. I recommend this:
At the center the flux times. I use 7-9ms
Bottom left multiplier I use X2
Bottom middle waiting time between pulses at multistage welds 2ms is ok
Ok alan. I had some time and tested this for you:
As mr @taz said surface matters. You can test nickel on silicone but not copper. You will make a hole if the surface is not stiff. I used crystal.
1st I tested copper on steel and nickel on it.
Good results as usual
2nd I did copper on nickel. Not very good yet acceptable.
3rd nickel on copper. Very good.
As you can see the order matters. Copper on nickel makes weaker welds using the same settings (9ms X2)
Copper on copper sux. I said it several times. Not viable not even using tungsten points. At least I didn’t succeed so far.
Make sure the strips are flat and you make good pressure or you will make holes. Copper needs a lot of practice to master. It’s as easy as nickel once you figure it out.
Btw this is the first time I use that pen on copper. Not bad
Thanks that’s helpful indeed
Anderson connectors on the packs, so series are negative to positive just by plugging one pack to another, awg10
For the series I made a quick, ugly and dirty 4mm banana to awg12 soldered to 2 x xt60 plugs which are soldered directly to an xt90
Maybe need to revisit that
The pack should have the juice, in fact the weld on one side I can get perfect. 0.15 nickel on top of 0.1 copper
Thanks for the vid, the method I am testing is the last option you show.
Will remake the battery connection carefully and inspect the original xt90 connection that was on the probe set to ensure it has not partially detached or something dumb like that, all lipos are balanced and charged.
The glass chopping board will also try
Cheers buds
I can get it welding (bit better since reconnector made) @12ms x3 multi-stage multiplier, 3ms multi-stage.
Just about happy, another test strip or two and probe reshape and I’ll go for it
So just today the screen died, it still welds tho.
What would of caused this?
This thing works great. At first it would not welf for anything it just loved blowing holes through nickel no matter the setting and maybe once out of 30 failures was an ok weld.
My problem was the electrodes on the pen were to close to each other. I gapped them a few mm’s and it’s perfect every time. Did 800 welds on a battery I made and 0 failures.
Hmm maybe one of the soldered pins for the screen came loose or broke off.
Ill check. Does anyone know the screen type it uses?
Could of just died.
i really want to try using ultracapacitors instead of lipos to power the welder.
put six of these in series, 2.3v * 6 = 13.8v
would that even work?
could these ultra-caps have enough discharge current to rival high C rated lipos?
