Modded the boss welder today with thermal adhesive pads and old gpu heat sinks, really helps with overheating but have to say I’m still struggling with nickel > copper on 4s, even 0.1mm copper, I feel it should tear the nickel when peeled, so far not
Recharging lipos to full strength, review suggested settings and try again
No. I am beaten. I fell somehow. I don’t remember anything. My head got a good shot.
I was wearing full body armor. No broken bones. Doctor sent me home with meds. I will be in pain for two weeks. I had a lot of test in mind with the boss welder. Seems I have lost the gopro 7. Tests will have to wait. Battery builds too.
Ye. Full face helmet, lazyrolling and motorcycle pants. I got the hands wounded, a big hit in the back and another in the head. Doc said I’ll be ok I two weeks. I hope so. Right now I can’t pee without help.
If only I had my damn cam I’d know what the hell happened. Well… no battery build for a while
I went back home by myself but I don’t know how. I can’t remember anything from lunch till night. I remember the chicken, the ice cream, the coffee and nothing else. All of a sudden I was burning in pain on a bed. My bro said I phoned from home, my trampa was there. And i was all dirt and blood, helmet still on. Babbling without sense.
I ride at 5-10 kmh at the city but way faster on dirt offroad. Since I was with the trampa and full of dirt I think I know where I rode. There’s few people or nobody there. I wish I knew how the hell I fell that badly yet I managed to go home.
Crazy. Hope ur head is good. With the Boss and the multiplier and ms variables do u just fiddle with those and keep to ur main big numbers as decided by thickness, such as 7 for .2mm nickel?
I use the multiplier only for copper. As a matter of fact the minispotA does not have it as it is not really required for nickel.
7 X 0.2 is a perfect size. For esk8 0.15 is sufficient but I like using more than I need to run cool the packs. I am more fond of wide tabs lately. I said the magic numbers a few times at the other forum.
1.4ms for 0.1mm nickel
4ms for 0.15mm nickel
7ms for 0.20mm nickel
4ms for 0.05mm copper
8ms for 0.1mm copper on 4s lipo X2
The ms numbers can vary a little depending on lipo setup. I test first and engage cells later but once my numbers are decided I make very few changes. For 0.1 copper for example it is very important to have the lipo fully charged so I rise to 9ms after a few welds and refuel several times during the building process. Nickel is way easier to work with so no changes needed.
Today i made another sandwich method test with the custom boss spot welder.
I am very happy with the results. Copper on copper sucks. I have never managed to make a decent weld. They do not stick. Using the sandwich method i made two strips of copper with nickel inside stick and two strips of nickel with copper inside stick too.
Even though i prefer wide tabs this could be useful. Making it possible made my day.
left= double sandwich-------------------middle single sandwich----right=copper on copper
copper on copper=very weak welds. NOT viable
single sandwich= copper on copper with some nickel inside. Successful
double sandwich=copper+nickel+copper+nickel. It failed yet seems two nickel strips with some copper inside is viable
These tests could be useful. The sandwich method can have some applications after all with this machine.
When you open a high current tap and you close it all of a sudden you can hear a noise if the pipe is metallic. If it’s made of rubber you can see it jump. The water stops the flow and goes back quickly. Plumbers here call it the battering ram effect. I am no electronics engineer so I do not know the exact name of that phenomenon. I guess positive and negative travel fast to the short, when positive reaches negative the current flow has a similar effect as water and jumps.
I am open to more technical theories.
Good morning. For those who have difficulties with the pen maintenance and building new ones you will be glad to know that the sunkko is discounted now. That model has been vouched by the great @thisguyhere
I ordered one just out of curiosity and arrived today. Well…I don’t like it. It’s way easier to maintain than custom pens. Just replace tips and go. That’s cool but the tips were 3mm away from each other. That’s too much. I had to rise the flux times a lot to make decent welds. Then I just used some kapton to insulate the tips and another layer to reduce the gap. Now I get the same quality (tested on nickel only) than my custom pens.
Verdict:
If you don’t want to build your own pens and you prefer a tool easy to maintain this pen is a very good choice. I highly recommend to reduce gap between copper points.
Custom pens are way cheaper. So if you have the patience to build them it’s a better choice imho.
I used this to make dozens of batteries, but the electrodes have a bad way of securing and if your not very careful they break easily and get stuck inside
I didn’t try the pen above but i recommend it
But overall in my opinion the best welding pen is the one from kWeld, with a printed holder they are great, electrodes can be bought locally and last 2 months of daily welding for at least 3 hours