I sent an email to Lee before asking your advice, he told me that the problem probably came from my S2 …and advised me to buy a new S2 welding station …telling me that the first goal of the boss level is the spot welder and not the welding …a little/a lot of disappointment from the after-sales service …
Que putada. My iron solder never failed so far. It’s nearly my main solder.
We didn’t talk for a long time now. Last time we had a chat he told me the economic war usa/china has collateral damage in south Korea.
China is selling the parts way more expensive and the Korean national post office raised prices a lot. He always had a minimum profit (if any at all)for this device. It’s just his hobby. Problems could lead to money losses and therefore he will stop making his wonderful devices. I understand your frustration but I guess that’s the best after sales he can possibly do by now.
I saw that in iron itself there is a resistance … can the problem come from iron alone? What do you think? And how do you check when you only have one iron holder…
Could be… disassemble the hakko and check all contacts are clean and functional. Double check the connector. Maybe the hakko is defective. He just sells it as it comes. He makes a QC of the welds after shipping but I doubt he checks the hakko. Mine came sealed. Hakko company has QC I guess.
Okay’ I’ve checked everything the problem is still there. Never mind. Thanks for all your advice.
hes not going to make them anymore?
its been a while. what was the thickest copper you were able to weld and at what settings?
Thickest was 0.2 but that’s suicidal for the machine and totally unnecessary for us.
0.1 is my usual choice. At 4s X2 8-9 ms depending on lipo charge. I try to keep it as high as possible. The welds are better at full charge.
Cooling the machine properly is a must. I taped videos about all that.
I cranked the welder into wild terrain and still the copper welds weren’t strong
I suspect both that the iron cells have a big voltage drop and also need more in parallel.
And almost ready for that test:
Before was using a graphene 3s and it does well and can get a weak copper welds using the insane setting u can see in the pic above.
I’m assuming those settings are not recommended but I’m also assuming the killer is current and heat and if it’s not even able to weld the copper and I’m keeping under the 50c limit it should be ok. ? So tempting to turn the push-button knob and keep going higher
Video of you welding the copper would be good.
TLDR: [WTB] [US] lipo for welder supply
I’m about to build a couple more packs with this welder! When I first used it I simply paralleled most of my 4s packs together and used that to power the welder but it still wasn’t as good as I was wanting. I’m now looking for the best ways to supply it and have tried making my own 3s out of large 8AH pouch cells, but it didn’t improve anything especially with the 0.2mm nickel I’ll be using. I’m thinking the suggested 5AH 130C rated nanotech might be the way to go but it’s quite pricey with shipping from overseas. Does anyone have one sitting around that they’re willing to sell that will 100% weld 0.2mm pure nickel? (I’d like too make sure it’s a battery supply issue before checking electronics)
Shorten and thicken your wires first.
Do you mean the battery wires? They’re only ~3" long, and the parallel connector is very tightly packed, I’ll take a picture when I get home.
The boss spot welder has been great for several packs…until now. Mid build the spot welder OLED (?) goes dark and then won’t weld. I’m assuming they are related in some way. But I know nothing about how this thing is built. I’ll start with replacing the OLED screen if possible. Can anyone tell me which OLED this is?
Almost certain it’s a 0.96" arduino OLED display such as this one, I’ve used a few of them before and they’re basically the same just rebranded or repackaged they all use i2c for communication as well, as it’s just a display you shouldn’t need to reprogram anything
Thank you! Just ordered that one. I’m doubtful this alone will fix the welder, but I need to start somewhere.
ive got a broken one of these if anyone is interested in buying it from me to repair. dont remember what’s wrong with it but message me