Here ya go, I would set my limits 2-4% inside of the rated maximum/minimum but that is just my personal preference and not some rule. Im still learning about how best to treat cells for longevity
LithiumWerks - Charging Recomendation Document 2021.pdf (252.9 KB)
LithiumWerks ANR26650M1-B Power Cell (030921) Data Sheet.pdf (819.5 KB)
Why?
I don’t know the kv but I’m guessing u could put even as much as 100 amps per motor and it would still be productive.
They’re boosted v1 motors, I’m not sure running 100amps would be productive lol
Maybe for a mile or so… and now I see your point
Either way it would be pretty hard on what is already an old set of motors
Deal!
I do need to get some fish paper though… was planning to anyway.
I only have one, pm address.
Did you take a dremel disk to the end of that cell?! Im going to do the same to a bum a123 lifepo, for science.
I was told and assumed the cell was fucked if you pulled a hole trying to harvest it.
Yes, a dremel with a small cutoff disk and just kept barely touching it as I was digging deeper. It would have been probably interesting to see how thick the end really is, but I wasn’t sure what’s inside and didn’t want to leak all over if I had punched through.
It was one of the completely dead a123, 0v, old cells from the original pack.
i see them being something like 170 or 190kv so 100 amps would still be far from saturating the motor. cant run 100 amps for long before get too hot and maybe with the gearing it’s unnecessary and there’s enough torque as is…but if not there’s no reason not to run 100 amps each motor.
I will experiment for sure. I was planning to start with 30A/motor as that’s what I saw the original boosted ESC was rated for
especially with those cells you could do high battery amps besides high motor amps. I dont know what a 30 amp rating is for and as long as you dont get them to some unknown temp that would damage the magnets you dont have to worry.
green,yellow,orange = green,yellow,blue in most cases
We almost have a box. Not the most glorious box but it should work.
Still playing around with small changes, need to decide on a spot for the loopkey and charge port.
What orientation are you going to print this? What material?
Haven’t decided 100% yet, we have two options:
It will be printed in black ABS and it will fit as a whole piece on the bed. Not worried about warping, I run the printer enclosed and the chamber is quite hot when printing large parts like this.
Looks like you already decided on bms solutions.
I’m rewiring a 12s2p a123 pack in a hummie deck atm.
The top two are balancers only.
(Lol, the orange one came from @hummieee himself a few years back, thanks again btw)
I have a smart bms like urs, but I don’t have the space.
I really want to try the middle board soon, as an external tool. Seen them around, never used it before. I assume it’s like a interfaceless tool like the one above, I could use it to balance a 6s pack? 
, we will see soon.
Surely you’re itching to share some pics with that 
I’d say the BMS solution is somewhat up in the air for now. I did order an LTT smart BMS but it’s been already 4 days and no tracking, nothing. Because I’m planning to use it only to charge, it’s more than I’d need and they’re quite big. I could use that space better. My first choice would’ve been a red one like your last pic but I couldn’t find it anywhere in stock.
Not too worried for now, I can use an external balance charger (from my RC days) until I get my hands on a BMS that will live in the pack. Only downside is that I’ll have to make some sort of easy to open hatch to reach the balance lead from the pack.
I must finish the evolve rework. When I open the hummie, I’ll post. The evolve project is short.
I have a couple I didn’t use and would sell at my cost plus shipping. They’re maybe 14s or 16s but u can use them with 12s I think. Lifepo4
Update!
I’m re-drawing the battery case this time with the idea of printing it in one piece without supports (bottom side down). Also, I’m thinking to make it more like a regular enclosure and not have the inside with the shapes of the cells - this so I can better secure the pack and have some wiggle room to enclose it in fishpaper/tape. It’s probably better to have a more solid cell pack sit on some vibration dampening material inside the case.
I haven’t started on the pack yet, I need to find fishpaper, was hoping to locate some electronics store and not order online. I also need to decide if I will connect the series pairs with nickel strips or with small pieces of 12AWG silicone wire like I see being used in many diy packs.
Oh yeah, lastly, after some research time, we have motor specs. This should make it easier to set up the VESC:
Boosted V1 motors:
190-210kv (I put a range here because I haven’t found one clear source of info, around that value should work)
5055 size
25x41 stator
14T motor pulley
50T hub pulley
(3.5 gear ratio)
They use 12awg wire bc the packs will flex.
Others feel free to chime in, but if this pack is flexing in a relatively short, abs 3d printed enclosure, you have bigger problems.
Also for everyone’s benefit, a123 cells have reversed polarity compared to what every other li ion cell has. It was said before, but if you’ve made a few batteries, this swap is a mind bender.
