Boosted Board V1 Revival - Battery Rebuild

Join me in the process of bringing back to life an old Boosted Board V1.

Initially I’ve started a thread on reddit but I have a feeling this is going to be a better place to document this and might even help others who tinker with their boards.

It’s the usual story: old board left unused for a very long time and now the I’ve found this burning desire to revive it.

For now I’m not looking to replace/change the electronics, we are only going to focus on rebuilding the battery. I’ve done the usual revival tactics like spinning the wheels for a while and the board does come to life with a drill hooked up to one of the motors, it doesn’t stay on and it doesn’t start charging.

I’ve managed to open up the pack (it wasn’t easy but I did not damage anything) and it looks like we got a total voltage of about 2v :confused:

Next I measured all the individual cells and they’re pretty much completely dead. Some read a tiny bit over 0 but most of them nothing. I know this would mean the need to replace all of them and that’s what we’ll end up doing, but until the replacement cells arrive, we can do some more experimenting with this pack.

I hooked up one individual cell to a simple Lithium Ion charger and kept a voltmeter on the whole time. It slowly started charging it and within about 2 hours it got to a little over 2 volts. I stopped the charging at 2.6v and left it alone for a few hours, mainly because I had to leave. When I checked again, it showed 0.5v. This is as dead as it gets and there’s nothing I can do to revive it considering how quickly it discharged itself… or maybe the BMS did something and distributed over the whole pack? Just thinkin out loud… is this nonsense?

I’ll stick to the exact same cell type and going to try with some cheap ebay reclaimed pack. If nothing else, it will be a good exercise in rebuilding the pack and getting ready for a future full build.

So this is where we are now, I keep charging individual cells like this and monitoring the total pack voltage. Some cells stay charged, some get back to 0 pretty much instantly. I’d assume those are the dead ones. Right now we’re reading a little over 10v if I measure the main pack leads. I tried hooking up its original charger but it’s still the blinking red light thing… I’m wondering if I need to connect the ESC, maybe the Boosted BMS doesn’t like to be charged without the ESC connected… again, thinking out loud for now, but any tips are welcome.

I’ll keep posting updates when I take this apart and we’ll start to spot weld the new cells. We’ll do this next week, until then I’ll keep messing with the old cells, Ideally I’d like to see it charging by itself and the red blinking gone.

7 Likes

Please don’t recharge dead lithium ion cells, it’s very, very dangerous.

Which brings me to the second thing: you might be really lucky that these are LiFePO4 cells which are slightly less unsafe than regular 4.2V lithium ion cells.

But do not charge these to 4.2V, they are a 3.65V cell. Also the positive end is the flat side and the “button” end is negative. (Opposite from normal)

4 Likes

This is a recipe for a fire, please stop.

6 Likes

yeah boss dump that pack asap

3 Likes

Roger! Not going to play with this pack. Will start taking it apart to save the BMS. I do realize playing with these dead cells won’t help in any way.

3 Likes

The only way to make this work is to safely dispose of those cells and put different LiFePO4 cells there. And they need to be matched, and they need to have never been dead.

Mixing and matching or buying cheap cells is a bad idea.

Those are probably 26650 A123 LiFePO4 cells.

3 Likes

Yes, that’s what I will be replacing them with and yes, I’ll change all 12 of them.

2 Likes

@Guy746 is the boss

@cucu If i remember correctly, the MakerX DV4 will fit nicely into the stock boosted ESC enclosure. I’m not sure if that will limit your planned cell configuration though.

Thanks for the tips, yes, I was looking at some of those exact ebay listings. I’ll get one of those reclaimed packs and find a set of 12 good cells.

@Baxter, I will keep this in mind. For now I’d like to only change the cells and keep the rest stock but I’m 100% sure I will want to change all the electronics eventually. Let’s first see how this’ll work once we get it powered.

Got the BMS off safely, now how da heck do I get these cells out. Boosted filled the bottom with that white rubbery silicone glue thing and it’s really in there tight. Heat it up? With all the cells there?

2 Likes

I mean, battery clearing house… I had ebay on my mind :slight_smile:

1 Like

Silly question: if eventually I change the BMS and ESC, I’d have to get a new remote too, right? The Boosted one will only work with Boosted electronics?

TLDR for anyone can’t be bothered to read all that

OP trying to kill himself

That’s not the right TLDR, not even reading between the lines. I’ve stopped messing with the pack and I will replace all cells with good ones.

Reclaimed packs with good cells are a good source, nothing dangerous as long as I verify the cells and not do anything else stupid along the way :slight_smile:

1 Like

Hey, tagged you on a listing on the parts for sale forum on here. Worth a look.

Do you have your old charger? Now that the battery is disconnected you can use your charger to supply power to the esc and check the function of the esc & remote, don’t forget to check the battery voltage on the remote before charging - they are usually powered by small lipo pouch batteries which are significantly more dangerous to try and “revive” so if it is dead just dispose of it and get a new one. You can do the same trick with the charger for the remote to power it for testing

1 Like

Search: 35 results found for “lifepo4” – Battery Hookup

2 Likes

Thank you, much appreciated! I did indeed already run into that thread. That’s how I actually discovered this place :slight_smile:

I checked the rest, the ESC comes to life and the remote is good too.

I probably should have started that I do know a bit about these batteries, I’ve been working with lipos for many years now and I know how they work and what can happen. The chance that I’ll do something bad during this project is low.

The only thing left now is to decide what cells I will get. Do I stick to one of those packs from battery clearing house and such or try a set of K2s from @hummieee ? What are the chances of the BMS not working with any other kind of cells except for the old a123s?

btw, I’m in the US (PNW) so buying from either source would be ok.

1 Like

Probably won’t work unless they are the same chemistry.
I have those guys I bought from hummie way back.

I was going to resurrect my boosted v1 with em but never did because reasons.

There are 35 left. I’ll sell them to you for whatever I paid for them I’ll have to look it up - but you have to pay to ship from Canada.

1 Like

That might work. Could you check them and see if they still have some charge? If they sat for a long time, is it possible they’re as dead as mine?

How much would shipping cost to 98029?

They are all between 3.29 and 3.31.

I’m gonna guess $20 for cheapest slowest package rate? $40 if you want faster with tracking.

Edit: I originally paid $72 for 48 cells +$62 shipping.

So $50 for the cells. So looks like the shipping might be more than I thought if you want a tracked package I can take em to the post office and find out for sure if it’s important for you to know.

2 Likes