for example, in this photo the gears are wayy too close together
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I think this is only if you buy them with the trucks and motors attached, right?
These drives, to me right now are like those super uncomfortable, last pair of shoes you can’t afford yet to replace.
Funny that there’s quite a few asking me in private how i like them, but i have nothing to comment. I’m just… done with them.
It’s nice to see other people enjoying them though
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So weird how your experience is the opposite of the others
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I stalked the fuck out of your profile looking for your issues with them. Care to link it?
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For those wondering, I found these instructions from Ernesto on setting up Kaly gear drives to be very helpful when it comes to setting backlash.
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They’re thrown around in this thread, probably 1000 comments up.
I will list only the issues related strictly to the drive system itself.
In short, berg adapter is not true to center in one way or another. Sounds exactly like it and nothing i tried fixed it. Adjusting the backlash properly has one side rubbing metal and the other being loose enough to have noticeable backlash.
And now since owning these for over 3000km, the collar bearings last less than belts on a belt drive. They cost around £12 to replace too. I’m at about £90 in bearings alone by now, every rain they get fucked, and if it doesn’t rain they take about 500km to start feeling really crunchy. My wh/km with new bearings is at 16.8. right now it consumes:
I need to say that i ride my board like no tomorrow and use it to commute over 200km/week
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Does the berg adapter bold on to the gear or are they one piece? Does the backlash go bad on a test bench with no load on the wheels? If the adapter is off center then I could totally see that moving the wheel gear around and messing with backlash
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Adapter bolts onto gears.
I believe it’s if you buy them with the motor. They’re made for trampa and mbs trucks so if I can get those from the bn store too then that would be great.
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Uses 2 m4x10(?) Pancake head screws. Same as the bolts holding the lid just smaller head. I strongly do not recommend running those without loctite to change between adapter types. Anything gets in there, from loctite, grease, dust, water (and rust) and needs a good run over with a wire disc/brush before it will fit right again
^ set up for minimal backlash
One side is bad, the other is barely noticeable/completely passable as tolerances go
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M1GearDriveAssembly.pdf (1.3 MB)
https://boardnamics.com/downloads/
The assembly instructions have some wording about set up. Including specifically calling out loctite-ing the 2x button head screws mounting the wheel adapter to the motor gear, cleaning mating surfaces, adding grease, as well as setting backlash.
I’m sure there will be another assembly doc for the M1 ATs.
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Lol I doubt that, I guess I meant just with the motors like you said
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I will update the instructions for both versions of the drive.
I will also ship gear drives with the hub + gear part already assembled so there is no chance of there being any funny business. The berg version ran true for me. I think it was an issue with spacers. The design is very sensitive to spacers. It relies on them to keep everything mounted down.
There was an issue on the street version where the pins for the wheel adapter could shake loose. That is solved in this batch by modifying the angle of the pin (more shallow) and applying Loctite 648 in the bottom of each hole before pressing it in.
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The last part sounds like Dr. Zoidberg 
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Mine actually measured around 19.55 across both edges, both sides.
Great for Trampa. As for 20x20mm trucks that actually are 20mm…no chance.
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Oh dude that’s perfect