I’m thinking LYevo 12S5P samsung 35E for the best 12S meepo hub setup, you don’t need that many battery amps for hubs and that will be tons of range.
Yeah I have to open it up as well to adjust everything, and the fitment is so tight plus extra strength Velcro, I have to squeeze it out of the case for the slave side. ERPM is still something I’m just trying to figure out at the moment. I still haven’t even measured the top speed with a GPS app or anything yet, need to do that too.
Also my brakes are gonna go down to -30, I had a panic stop this week and the locked up one or both of the wheels, so I’d prefer to just stop a little slower than drift it out lol.
Alright ladies and gentlemen, we have ascended to full DIY status with the latest addition of the TorqueBoards Direct Drive system. I ordered on a Tuesday, shipped Saturday, received Monday! I’ve put around 30 miles on them so far.
First impression is that these things are massive both in size and weight. More copper/iron is better for performance so I’m not complaining. Secondly, wow these TB 110 wheels are the shit. I didn’t think a good road could literally feel like a cloud or snow slope. Thirdly, the power is great. I am running 70/-50/60/-20 settings with amazing torque and hill climbing ability. Fourthly, the stability is great; I have little fear of carving compared to the hub motors that would bounce around and lose grip. Lastly, the sound at high speed at 20kHz is pretty sweet too.
Setup was a little complicated but nothing I couldn’t manage. First thing I did to these motors was chop the connectors and switch them to 3.5mm bullets (for the Unity) and proper 2.0 JST PH sensor connectors. I then needed to file down the Flatland 3d bash-guards so the TB baseplates would sit flush. After affixing them to the deck and ESC I was getting low speed stuttering in sensored FOC. At first I was worried that I had messed up the sensor connector swap but after changing the “Sensored to sensorless transition RPM” from 3000 to 10000rpm, the issue is completely gone.
The motors have a little rattle to them but this is normal and potentially remedied with some thermal paste along the axel (with the added benefit of faster cool off times). Overall these things are ridiculously futuristic and awesome.
Quick update: I went from 60 to 70 battery amps and wow I felt a huge difference in the mid and high end range. I guess pushing 3,000 watts is no joke haha. Settings updated in OP.
Some thermal paste on the square portion of the DD hanger has pretty much eliminated motor chatter. I think (have not tested) the cool down times are a little faster. The fins on the hanger definitely seem hotter now. I didn’t use much since I didn’t want to get the hanger messy.
I’m averaging 21 Wh/mile which seems high but I am pushing way more power from dead stops and the board is noticeably heavier so I don’t think it’s unreasonable. So my range is closer to 18-22 miles now.
I’ve done light research about longboard components and really want to build a DIY, and almost all of the components i decided on are in this build, but i’m unsure how to assemble everything, is there some kind of ultimate guide where I can learn how so set up any board, or should I just surf the subreddit for a few years until I understand all the numbers and electronics (I don’t).
Lot’s of reading. A fair amount of experience and a bit of failure. I started off with a prebuilt board and learned how it operated before moving on to DIY. It’s not for everyone, but anyone can do it with enough patience.
I would be happy to assist you (or anyone else) through private message now or in the future about anything specific to my build. Don’t hesitate to ask, but read first!
Board has been working flawless although the cold and rain have kept me off the streets a lot. I love riding this refined contraption knowing I built it myself!
I am thinking about doing a 12s battery swap in the future and was wondering if a capacitor bank is something that is necessary since I have long battery wires. I haven’t had any issues at 10s without one. I don’t really understand transient voltage spikes. I would appreciate everyone’s input and I understand that anything I do to my board is at my own risk. @Deodand@Blasto@Chibatterysystems
I just whipped up a 12s test pack and recorded an unloaded top speed of 35.9 mph on my 75kv TBDD’s.
I really want to whip up a 12s3p Sony VTC5D pack but I feel like I am going to lose too much range compared to my 10s4p Samsung 30q… I’d appreciate some input on the matter (Trust me I have looked at the calculator for hours…)
Well if you went to 10S4P of 5D’s you’d likely lose range, so you’d almost certainly be losing range with 4 less cells. My reasoning being that they’re 10.3Wh vs. the 30Q at 11Wh, tho marginal, still a difference.
Any particular reason for that cell type? Seems something like a 40T 21700 pack in 12S3P would be more range and at ~18mm longer than the 10S4P pack of 30Q should still fit. (I’m assuming you’d have to half stack them)
Alternatively, if you’re just after the amps. Sammy 30T?
*also meant to mention that the VTC5D seemed expensive for what it is which would have steered me away.
My choice of VTC5D would be a compensation of the loss of a parallel group from some more amps per cell. I would love to go 21700 but after talking with Alan a bit it seems the vanguard and his enclosure isn’t suited well for those cells. I think @Sn4Pz has a BMS-less 10s3p of Samsung 30Ts IIRC.
I want some more speed. I don’t really mind the range loss but I am also taking efficiency and pack health in mind so when I throw it into the calc and get 14.5 miles I am a bit hesitant for my “conservative” range estimates. I really don’t want to be getting less that 15 miles per charge if I can help it. Obviously, the answer is a 12s4p of VTC5D but that means more time, money, and weight.
Thank you for the Wh per cell figure. Where did you get that? Has Mooch tested them? I really should become a Patreon so I can access his info sooner.
If you have ‘fuck it’ money, I think upgrading to the 12s enclosure, along with a 10s4p (12s3p if you really want that voltage ) of Santo 2070C cells would be the bees knees.
Increased capacity compared to 30q, even comparing the 12s3p setup to your current 10s4p (but only by like 30ish watt hours)
Higher amp output
Better sag performance (?) - I assume that you’re not running these cells at their max amp ratings, and with how highly mooch praised these cells I figure they would have equal or better levels of sag.
Unfortunately moochs thread on the vape forums seems to have poofed, and this was all I could find:
I mostly reccomended it because the 2mm saved from a 21700 staggered pack would make a significant difference in how the battery would fit in the enclosure.
I get that just don’t think they are good value, 30t has considerably less drop in capacity at 10-30A
it’s as if the 20700c is a 3000mah cell at anything above 5A
(Trust me I have looked at the calculator for hours…)
) of Santo 2070C cells would be the bees knees.
