Oh. So you put so much heat on the other end this end fell apart…
Wild.
Did you have it plugged into a connector to Keep it in place dissipate the heat?
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I was doing that exactly but it seemed like it was saturating and taking a lot longer.
But if you looked at my more recent posts I actually soldered it just fine
So more so a skill issue.
I kept resoldering it back to back because I wasn’t happy with the outcome and just didn’t allow enough time for it to cool.
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Oi I was an asshole yesterday and stole my motors / escs back from @fessyfoo as I lent em out but unfortunately he didn’t get around to using em.
I got bored sort of and wanted to fuck around
I was playing around with layout…
I was first thinking of that staggered layout.
But as I messed around a bit more I found a better solution
——->
This weave
Thingamabob is tight.
Also the easiest part.
Next part will be following suit in deisgning a custom signal harness shroud.
I was initially being defiant and thought I could reheat the signal harness heatshrink and bend those wires to sort of immediately run perpendicular down the tail spine but after some mock up trials.
I thought it would probably be more work than it would be worth.
With Signal harness pointing outward obviously leaves it liable to scrapes n shit but I’d rather it be that than it be closer to my power leads / phase wires.
Super busy with work and boat shit +
my spine is still broken
But there is a bit of progress for ya
Maybe will drill esc mounting holes way later today. 
7 Likes
Happy with how it’s coming out.
It’s not Perfect.
But it should work
I need a crimperrrrrrr for the phase lugs anyone in LA have one that I could potentially borrow?
Nevermind I have one coming today 
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Is the 8 gauge split enough?
- 8 gauge is fine
- Redo it with 6 gauge.
0
voters
Every time
9 Likes
Guilty here as well. A reliable 2 piece version would save so much frustration.
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Roughing the shape needed to do this again but on my V6
Man I am having such a hard time figuring out how to do this the right way.
I’m utilizing onshape for reference if anyone has any suggestions on how to shape this beezy the right way id greatly appreciate any input
In my original attempt was trying to make the two faces extrude and sort of take shape of half of one another as there is conflicting geometry but I am sort of trying to move on past it… I instead clearly used the fillet feature to make it look like I know what I’m doing.
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I would take a side profile shot of the board and use that shape to make the 2d sketch before extruding.
2 Likes
To do
secure the bottom parts of my G300s
finish designing that underside bracket
Splice hall sensor JST to proper size
CAN Wire
Figure out how I’m going to mount my power switch
Maybe rear lights ?
Racebox micro mounting situation
12S7P P45B because those are the cells I have
3 Likes
getting a bit closerr
going to probably do the flanged bits aswell
Here’s my attempt at it anyway
Will do the Back wall later… or not
I sort of doubt I will need studs that are vertical…
I think if I do I already have bigger problems to begin with…
or maybe this is me rationalizing being a complete lazy ass
Was doin a sort of Mockup of the 12s6p (p45Bs)
Considering my spine is still pretty broke aswell as injuring both my ankles, and not knowing how hard I’m going to ride again.
I think that 12s6p battery should be suitable… I don’t need to be pushing it right off the bat. But I’m wondering if its really gonna feel all that different from my V5 Considering its still in that Ballpark power output range.. of like 15kw or so at nominal voltage atleast.
at the 50.4 Ceiling its 18kw roughly but that tapers off pretty quick down to 15kw Im sure.
My V5 is like 12kw Capable so I’m just kind of sitting on the Idea of a 12s7p
but ill already have Fitment issues at 12s6
I have an idea that could make both a 12s6 or 12s7 work either way but idk.
Any input is great thanks.
I’m 2 retarded to comprehend how that process would work 
Do you want advice or are you throwing in the towel before trying?