another one my dumbass ideas on fixing something that isn’t broke but I fear with the way I ride it could break pretty quickly
I want to Drill out the m4 threads in my hobbywing motors and drill / tap to m5 Which is going to end horribly or great Ill let you guys know
going to have to file out the screw channels to accept m5 screws or just design the mounts ground up. (or mill them out like a normal person)
which would give me an opportunity to design completely new motor mounts in a way that the motors sit higher and not risk the lower one popping off from terrain change etc
this is heavily debatable & probably a bad idea, I could risk destroying these motors.
either I take a chance with Depth control which might be my only option or I see if there a safe way to disassemble motor to drill & tap all the way through & reassemble
that makes me a bit nervous but I think I could maybe do it right…?
from the looks of it… it looks doable with some steady hands.
Ive taken out runners apart before but idk if I should risk it or not
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Ahaha I lied never mind I totally can get away with not designing that wedge.
As for the signal harness I’m still kinda iffy if I should give it more room and have the Vesc hang off the tail a little to give the harness leeway or just completely deny it it’s necessary space & bend the hell out the harness as soon as it comes out of that port.
Yeah, that’s a tough decision. Not saying I made the right choice, but I chose to face signal harness outwards because I didn’t want it wildly kinked by that support bar. Tucker designed a custom backshell…
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Probably the smarter move
@Goride65
But I ain’t gonna listen or follow suit 
Fought this 6 gauge for like an hour….
I didn’t wanna give up using my ts101 iron with a fat tip on it.
But I’m not happy with how it turned out.
Looks pretty fucked so I ordered this.
In hopes that having the right tool should work much better.
https://a.co/d/0bnPgpJ
Will share results later today if the Amazon driver doesn’t wreck his van in the la storm 
Also idk if I coined a neat trick or if this has been done before it probably has… but I find it super annoying when you are soldering a wire and the heat shrink preemptively shrinks…
That shit pisses me off lmao
I really didn’t wanna have to unsolder this joint because of heat shrink because I knew how hard it was gonna be given that my iron didn’t have a big enough tip on it.
So I wrapped kapton tape around the wire and then slid my heat shrink over the section of the wire with the shrink tubing and it stayed cold which was great. 
Should come in handy to someone else if that’s never been done before lmao.
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About to desolder
This beezy be sizzlin
I’m actually proud that I manage to almost do this with the ts101 but it just wasn’t enough
Stay tuned for a shiny joint
And a magnificent y split to 8 gauge
I am impressed that you got as far as you did with 6 gauge and the TS101.
What was your power supply?
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I think this is acceptable it shows up like shit on camera but it’s not a cold joint it’s melted all the way through.
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Pin started to drift and then I tried to correct it and sizzled the end off. Yayyy that fucked my night up lmao
Rookie shit
I’ll be sure to it right this next time
Completely defeated sorry no tales of success to be told 
I did make the y splits for next time instead of being a sad bastard
Probably totally the wrong lengths but I had to do something … alright bye homework time
Well I did it but I’m anticipating having to do it again (I have a trick up my sleeve to bring the connector lower to the center frame beam)
I will do this by routing the wire around the tail stem and circle them back so that the connector sits lower
The idea is that I reroute them around the tail stem & circle back so that qs10 sits loww
I need room as the other end of the qs10 will have a two way split out of each bullet
Idk maybe that’s dumb and I should just figure it out later
To Satisfy my own curiosity, I ordered a 100 Watt 20 volt 5 amp rated USB- C power supply, and Used a Higher end USB meter ( capable of handling 24 volts and 5 amps), inline on my TS101.
It was reading 21.2 volts, 2.73 amps. 58 watts maximum while heating towards 400C. I was noticing it taking far longer to do its thing on an XT60 and 12 AWG. I thought the USB meter was dropping too much wattage across it and tried again without it, with same lack of Gusto.
I previously made a 6S Samsung 50E battery just to power the TS101 through the 5.5x2.1 barrel jack on about 2 feet of 18 AWG silicone wire through An Anderson powerpole connector and inline wattmeter.
I charge the 6s battery to close to 25 volts and The TS101 initially draws 82 watts heating to 400C and then 78 watts max as the battery drops some voltage.
This extra 20 watts is very noticeable, and I will never again attempt to use the USB-C supply to power the TS101.
The 18 AWG silicone wire to barrel jack is much less obtrusive than the stiff USC C cable.
Looking at the instruction manual it says at 24V through barrel jack, the current is greater than or equal to 2.8 amps, 65 watts. I’m reading 25V at the wattmeter, and as much as 82 watts.
To get the potential 90 watts and 28 volts via USB-C, one apparently needs a PD 3.1 power supply and a USB C cable capable of handling 50v 5 amps, 240 watts.
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Heat creep.
Skill issue whatever ya wanna call it
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