Yes I absolutely do,
I need to get behind my computer again and give it a go
I guess I’m just having trouble seeing how that would work without that stuff in front of me atm
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Take a side profile shot almost like this but perfectly straight on so you get the shape of the deck. Put an object of known diameter on the board for reference (beer or soda can works great). When you go to sketch your part, you can import that photo as a background for reference. Scale it so that the diameter of the reference item matches what you measure in real life and you now have a 99% perfect template to design off of.
You can do this from the top down as well to trim off overall shape.
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Oh great idea actually
I’ll try this forsure
Thank you so much dude
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First print was a absolute disaster
But served enough to provide the necessary hope I needed.
User error on my part
Crossing different slicer firmware with printer profiles on accident etc.
Second print survived & came out barely acceptable.
Because this print was of a complete conjured model I put more thought into the mounting of it.
How I mounted the first ever concept of this sort of stomp pad was utlizing 6 m4 screws on my v5
That featured a through bolt design
After sort of using my imagination mounting this thing.
Being that I’ve never ridden this board…
I’m
Starting to think I might not be able to afford a through bolt design or protruding bolts lengths on the underside.
M4 reference →
M3 Reference →
Obviously these m3 screws are a bit too long but I am considering using injected m3 inserts to save myself the hassle of potentially dealing with clearance issues.
I need to find out if that’s even going to be a problem and whether the m3 screws will be able to hold up to the job aswell.
That’s all I got
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I noticed my threaded insert pattern was a bit off, so I fixed it
going 2 fire my printer up and start sizzlin away
hoping for success on this third go around
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playing around with battery layout, Initially was thinking 12s6p to be realistic but I think I can get away with a 12s7p.. which will be sick.
I’m going to measure voltage of all dem cells & glue em up if they read good.
This layout will probably end up tight in the Z axis but I have a Trick 4 dat,
longer Dzus Screws + 3d Printed Spacer to prop the shell a bit higher.
that is if its necessary tho
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That’s as far as I’m
Going to get today…
Will bore the stud holes tmr & maybe get after doing the other side too 
Kinda should focus on my kweld and other shit tho
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I feel like this part would probably be better if made from sheet metal.
I agree I but think I should find a different solution for this thing, I kind of hate the way it looks a bit.
Attempting to model my proclaimed plan
(No idea what I’m doing)
Mostly intended to figure BMS wiring layout.
Which I need to do more research on
But I’m just going to keep it moving.
Lastly I need to figure out my kweld mess
I think I overbought or underbought what was nesscary maybe both.
Also need to figure out how if my current nickel supply is going to be okay, or if I should invest in some other copper / nickel sandwich type deal.
@braunschweiger has welded 0.3mm copper under 0.05mm stainless with a Kweld at 120 joules, using welding flux/brazing paste between cell and copper.
If you need to buy more nickel sheet of proper width. compare to the prices of copper.
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V2 a bit more beef to it… still have to design a upper shroud for the puck receiver but man I love the way this came out… spent a lot of time on it just now… I was hoping for the past couple months that I could pull off a slick solution to these dangley chips, stoked !
Box mount for sure