Yeah I think I have some petg laying around if I need to use that instead. We shall see. I was really surprised this sheared like this honestly.
At first I thought my motor broke already 
Please let us know here when you source those bearings.
Hell, get extras, sell them to us.
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@ryansinatra where are you located? I have some carbon fiber infused polycarbonate. Maybe I could print you a pulley for testing it.
As far as alternative print options, id give the PLA + another go. Ive been using PLA+ from GEEtech and im really impressed by its strength and flexibility. If it looks like it sheared the layer, give it another go with the temperature and cooling options.
You can print ABS with a standard printer if you can just put a box over it as a temporary enclosure. But itll take a while to get dialed in.
Bill
Ive gotta give this stuff a try. Currently playing with the Priline CF polycarbonate that prints beautifully. But it goes down with nozzle temps as low as 260 which makes me think its blended with ABS.
Installing a 110v bed heater soon to improve those warmup times. Whats your nozzle/bed temps like for the nylon?
(spoiler its 0.1)
Btw for 3D print strength you check more of his videos he has a whole series. Quite usefull to get some indications for your print settings.
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good video, and larger layer widths will help a lot too. But you’re limited because of the dimensions of the spokes through the wheels. 0.1 layer height and 0.5 layer width with a 0.4 nozzle should get you there. If you’re using 8mm stock lead screws on the Z axis, use 0.12 as your layer height
Well, new adapters are printed and installed. pLA+ at 0.1mm layer height / 220 degrees with no cooling. Let’s see how the hold up
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Anyone wanna chime in on what my ideal unity settings should be for this build? I’m not unhappy with what I have it set at right now, but I wanna make sure I’m not stressing my batteries or motors too much.
I’m running two 20c 5s 3000mah lipos in series
Batt: -15/+45
Motor: -60/+50
Sensorless erpm: 4000(below this it will use sensors)
Current mode with reverse speed restricted for strong brakes
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If I’m running sensorless can I just ignore the erpm part?
Yeah, but I strongly recommend sensored with these for better torque and less heat.
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I’ll think about it 
How do I set this up exactly? I see the option for current with reverse, but how do I restrict the reverse speed.
vesc_tool has profiles. I use that to set reverse speed directly to 3kmph. See if you have something similar.
If not, then set min erpm appropriately. Ideally you set it to 0 and it doesn’t go back after braking, but that’s not going to happen. So set it to -100 or so, if it feels not so smooth while braking to 0, change it to -200 and so on.
To limit reverse speed exactly, you can calculate based on 20magnets, the max reverse speed that you want, tire dia etc.
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Oh yeah I forgot that you are not using a unity so it makes this a bit different here. Thanks for the info. Honestly my brakes are not that bad just with current mode set to current with brake instead of with reverse.
Has anyone else used the Elofty drives with a unity yet?
Hey I have the same exact deck! Can you share your enclosure STL file?
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I can post it up tomorrow after work 
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One thing that I’ve noticed is that on one motor, the mounting holes for the wheel adapter are not perfectly centered around the axle.
This means that when my adapter spins it is slightly off center.
I believe this puts a lot of extra strain on the adapter since the wheel is centered on the axle
I forgot that this build was meant to be flight safe 
I have yet to test , but I’m excited to fly with it some time to try it out.
Anyone have any tips for this? Do I check the board in a bag and carry on the batteries?
Did you solve this? Does the regular adapter wobble or only the 3D printed one?
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