I tried to search for info on using bindings and was let down. I looked for the stuff I was missing on the @MBS site also not as helpful as hoped.
lots of random thereds on here none of them a general discussion or first time use guides.
this is the best info I found. it still does not note the hardware sizes used for assembly nor is it on the product pages.
I am going to go take them and measure the right hardware sizes but was trying to avoid that.
So yeah anyone who wants to pull any info for a binding beginner in here is welcome.
Your request for better info is noted. One thing I have on my list is a quick video giving some tips on best practice for actually using F5 style bindings. A lot of people don’t realize that twisting your feet (toes inward / heels outward) is key. The increased friction on the sides of your feet is what really secures your feet in the binding. Then you can just untwist (toes out / heels in) when you want to step out. That reduces the need to really crank them down hard on your feet. That’s how mountainboarders jump flip and spin without their feet falling out (those that don’t ride with heel straps).
With respect to assembly the need for better info is noted. Thanks for pointing that out. For now please note the mounting screws/nuts that attach the bindings to the deck are all M6. The length depends on decks but 30mm is most common for thru-hole decks. For decks with inserts, the screws are typically 12-15mm depending on the depth of the inserts in the deck. Best to measure that one.
Awesome I will take the trip to the hardware store with you in my heart!
I feel like @Lee_Wright has made more than one video covering everything I need but I know I would end up spending half my day watching looking for it.
Slightly related question, how exactly do you fit a binding? I’ve been trying to adjust my F5s to be comfortable and hold my feet in properly, but it never feels right. The toeside ladder is at the very limit, but I still can’t seem to put my feet in such that it feels balanced (the heel sticks out too much for my liking). It always feels like the front edge of the binding is limiting my shoe, while the back edge kinda sits there. Lowering either side gets snug, but then it’s hard to stick my feet back in if it comes out, so I think it’s too tight. Also, when I push up against the L brackets, my feet are nearly parallel, but face inwards slightly. Is there anything I can try to make it more comfortable?
@MBS thanks for the extra information. I just assembled mine onto my board a couple weeks ago, and it was indeed a little confusing and hard to find the hardware lengths
Honestly I think the most useful thing would be a short guide on adjusting them, it feels hard to get comfortable at first, especially when you have multiple mounting options available on the Haero deck
@Fosterqc Q for me I have the Haero and I ended up going with M6 x 16mm and it has worked out great so far.
The short portion of the video that @Lee_Wright made helped me get more comfortable but having it in the guide would be great. Also, the guide that is sent with both the bindings and heelstraps is old, the F5’s aren’t on it.
@frankthedragon great questions too, I intend to make a video on this to share with everyone once I have acquired enough correct information to make an accurate guide.
Reviving @Fosterqc’s thread to get more input specifically on how to adjust bindings for the ideal fit. Specifically:
How did you choose which set of binding mounting holes to use?
For example, on the 2021 Bro :
Is it intended to choose a matched set of holes, i.e. outer two pairs (“wide stance”) or inner two (“narrow stance”)? Or do you adjust this for shoe width (one red set + one green set = wide shoe)
How hard do you tighten the toe strap onto your shoe? Enough to easily twist and remove? Snowboard style aka as tight as possible?
What does the ideal fit look/feel like for off-road / jumps / tricks to keep you steady and mounted to your board?
The way a binding is supposed to work is you can slide your foot in at an angle and it will naturally stop when the lace pad makes contact with the underside of the binding, then you rotate your toes inwards until the sides of your foot are in contact with the binding posts, its the posts that actually give you support and grip (the strap just gives turning leverage and some safety when you loose downforce)
You pick the stance that feels most natural for you, your feet should be a little past shoulder width apart and toes slightly splayed outwards if you got it right, I’d recommend lining up using the middle hole on the binding posts so you can adjust a little more once you’ve got your deck holes picked out (boots need more space than shoes)
I use the outermost sets of holes like in your red drawing because I love a good wide stance.
Next up is foot direction. I keep my front foot almost perpendicular to the way the board rolls (neutral) so I use the mbs foot strap holes in the alignment like this
I keep my rear binding looser than my front by one click because I pivot that one around more than the front. Both feet can still step out of the toe straps though when riding. I mostly just use them to grab with the top of my feet on heel side turns.
Totally fair. I’m not looking for exact instructions here - more of how did you get to your setup? what factors come into play in a setup that works for you?
Huge tip about the binding posts providing the main support. That’s not at all how most boardsports usually work with bindings (snowboarding, wakeboarding) so that’s really important.
I concur with all the previous comments. One good exercise is to stand on the board with your most comfortable stance, then place the bindings on your feet to see which holes work best for your natural stance. As mentioned above the “posts” should be pressed hard up against your feet in that stance because that is how you want it when riding. You then twist your foot to get in/out. As in your photo I recommend using the toe-side holes closest to the toe side edge because that makes it easiest to get in/out. The other ones are for a more “locked in” feel.
Oh also if you have an electronics enclosure setup, you want the bindings to line up so you can route the wires neatly, pro tip you can feed an XT90 with 10awg through the layers of the binding and keep it super secure
Im not happy with any default patterns, so make my own.
I like the inner L-bracket to be in the center of my foot.
I use this to lift the front and back end for ollie’s and allow’s me to ninja kick style to the ollie.
My Ollie is a front foot pull on the front inner most bracket then a back foot pull on the inner bracket.
I don’t really use the outside ones as much, aside from to not slip when going off road.
Im pretty sure if I could ollie this without bindings it would not have them.
Noob question: I’m looking to have more unweighting/small hopping ability in my next build, but might need to put a foot down during stops bcuz reasons. I’m thinking that either open bindings with grip or closed bindings running loose with no (or minimal) grip would be viable for this. Am i on the right track?
