Well… i just realized I have the entire board backwards. 
Somehow i thought everything was symmetric and reversible when i started.
It’s just a bunch of unfastening and refastening… except the dragon will now face backwards and upside down. Damnit @BenjaminF
Seems like we’re all sorted here but yep the, mbs logo should be readable to all your fans. Though I like the diamond tip pointing out method of explanation better.
Shitty to have to rotate everything 180° but the finish line is in sight!
#Bindings
Everything flipped! Thanks guys for looking out. This binding orientation makes way more sense. Discovered my front truck was on backwards during the uninstall too.
Will need to revise the footpad asap. It no longer fits.
i thought you had board backwards on purpose, i was like different folks different strokes like. but your bindings are still wrong. you need to rotate them 180
#Bindings
I swear these bindings are a seeing eye puzzle. I had the heel straps rotated up. Here’s them down:
Ratchets on the outside of the toe strap. Ratchets on the inside of the heel strap. Don’t know why, but I’m 90% sure this is correct:
This thought did cross my mind. Instead of pressing your feet inwards to hold tight, you’d press outwards. Could work. But in the end, I think the way the pads are made this wouldn’t work well. When I had them backwards they didn’t feel great.
@Venom121212 it looks like you have both ratchets on the same side. Do you prefer this way / any issues?
For real 
Lmao I went through this too at the beginning, I followed a leewright vid or something to put them in right
I kept banging my enclosure box when ratcheting the heel straps so I flipped them around and they felt the exact same that way.
Feels more natural to me to undo the bindings on the outside of the feet than to reach on the inside of them.
Solid! I might do the same
#Data
I could reduce this a few pounds if I removed the Davega, swapped the DV6 for the Xenith, put on 6" tires, and maybe lost the nanuk case entirely. Maybe get to 14kg / 30lbs. But I can’t see how anyone can really go lower. I specifically choose all the lowest weight mtb components for this build.
But otherwise, it’s pretty light with that 12s2p P42A pack. Somehow it feels lighter than my landyatchz 10s4p P42A / BN M1 gear drive / TB110s at 12.6 kg (27.8 lbs) - maybe because the bro + matrixII is so much longer and wider.
Never seen phase resistance this low 
Large 190kv motors. So this is fairly normal.
#Battery
Test fit the 12s3p range pack. Fits nicely above the makerx on some 100% solid printed angles. I need to add some padding, but I think this will work well.
Shoot, that’s a really clever battery layout! I ordered a box the other day for my 12s6p and it is definitely not as small as yours lol
I wouldn’t call this Nanuk 905 small, haha, but it’s a nice size. I’m sure I could pack a bigger spot-welded battery than this NESE setup, but it’s fun to assemble these.
Mainly, I didn’t want to have to run wires up the lid for a lid-mounted esc. I also wanted the potential to add a bottom mounted aluminum plate for rigidity and heat dissipation, if necessary. And I wanted a nice little electronics & wiring compartment, so I didn’t have to agonize over routing like on a bottom-mount enclosure.
#Battery
Finished the batteries!
Look at this ridiculous parallel harness
Watching the silicone squeeze out as the heat shrink tightened was quite satisfying.
Padded the range pack area. Nothing moves when the lid is locked. 
Just waiting for the new footpad to finish printing and then it’s off for a real test ride
next time try out the adhesive lines heat shrink! has hot glue on the inside so it has a nice clean waterproof setup.
Oh that’s the only stuff i use! so satisfying to see the adhesive bubble out and know the connection is extra protected.
On this harness i was worried that the large change in diameter from two jacketed 12awg wires down to one xt90 terminal would be too much for this size heat shrink, so i filled it with silicone as well.
This is my preferred method as well.
Some sealant under the shrinkwrap, whether silicone or conformal coating or epoxy, whatever. Then squeeze it down
edit Oct 2022: I prefer inserting pieces of unmelted HMA (hot glue) in there
