best option for bms in raptor 2 ??

hi new to the site !
i have a raptor 2 with a bad bms , surprised right ? (measured the cells all balanced)
battery is a 10s4p reading threw the site i couldn’t find a straight forward solution.
i really just want something reliable and as plug and play as possible im handy but not a diy guy

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Smart bms

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tough break Raptor is a brillant… DIY Complete :smiley:

I’d go for FlexiBMS or a LTT SMART BMS with Discharge. Both work Great - in Esk8 DIY comes one way or another.

Real badass can run DiebieMS but it’s increably tight to fit.

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Also I dont have a whole lot of space to work with the raptor one is really small

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watch this

but for space you can’t beat the flexi at the moment unless you run external BMS

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@Kram720 fit an LLT bms into a raptor 2, tight fit but definitely doable.

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Picked up a used raptor 2 Bms for now seams to have solved the problem

Yellow wire is charge wire can anybody tell me what the other 2 wires are I’m assuming it’s to do with the original switch gonna leave them unhooked

Flexibms looks to be a good option for size

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Yeah these go to a äntispark switch made by enetion, An epic idea but very flawed in its circutry.

Also they commonly blew up the fets.

But it was a nice idea to do BMS LCD/Switch and fuse in small form factor. + x2 outs for +/-

ive also done it and I designed some plastic parts that you can 3d print to put the capacity meter back in the right place - I did it for someone on here, ill see if I can find some pics

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Ok so it will pretty much work now after I calibrate the motors , but the way I have it wired right now for charging it will only charge with the power on . Is this bad thing to charge while the foc are powered up ?

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Okay so just so you know - your rear truck needs to be remounted, your UBracket the black aluminum plate needs to be flipped around, and you need the sharp side to be on the silicone to compressed it.

Use your finger to determine which side is the sharp side of you have it wrong it will cut your phase wires.

Trust me if you keep it like this for too long it messes up the whole config of the deck.

Back to BMS - Flexi Lite or LTT smart BMS is what you need

I do have a raptor running a stormcore and a diebiems (was hard to fit but it worked)

I think I have allready sorted out the problem your talking about it did allready damage the wires I sanded the edge so that it dosent cut the wires and something else I dont remember

Mainly concerned with charging with the foc powerd on if this a problem or not

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Sanding is NOT what you wanted to do… as I stated Jason potter made a beast that only works one way any self modifications (and iive seen many clients raptors with small mods)

Each one always temporary fixes something and ultimately makes the system fail.

And each client thinks they know best which is just the fun of the hobby I suppose, I’ve repaired over 30 of these boards. Your solution will work for a while but it’s the 3360W of torque you underestimate. How it compressed the silicone is what makes the water seal work overall.

Otherwise it will loosen either the truck screws or the internal enclosure screws get lifted (the ones that are mounted topside)

Got a perfect example of that in front of Me now

Again if your willing to discord let me know

I don’t know at all what your asking ?

If you can charge while the system is powered on. Sure, why not?

I’m happy to offer you a quick online video tech support help.

As these boards are pretty easy to keep running without much mairiabcw at all

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Can you send a photo of your raptor upside down (fully sealed) I might be able to show you the main issuee that simply

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I’m gonna double check my repair job I believe I ground a notch in the wood to let the wire sit lower the metal plate had a burr I sanded off but it’s been awhile it could prolly use an inspection , I’ll PM you I have a couple questions if your familiar with these