It’s rated 60A
Due to the fact that is 60A rated I mentioned earlier that I want to use the charge discharge feature
Kram got the 20A BMS. Same manufacture but a bigger unit
oh ok, the ones i get are 20a
So please check are the wires hooked up correctly including the two thin charging wires from the barrel connector. Nothing is soldered on I just placed it on to it
ok, i’m away right now, will look at it on my big monitor later on.
Looks good. The screw holes marked © you can screw these together with one of the stand off (long threaded tube) cut down.
Then you can put stand off (a&b) back in and screw the battery gauge and charge port back.
Ttl web site shows © as charge and discharge
https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/13s-48v-li-ion-battery-pcb-board-54-6v-lithium-bms-with-60a-discharge-current-for-electric-motorcycle-and-e-scooter-protection-2-2-3-2-2-2-2-2/
That’s the picture I saw…but what do I do with P-?
leave it unconnected i guess.
i’m having this same problem right now.
up until now haven’t had to use it for discharge but just had to do it.
if you look on the bms, charge / discharge says same:
but when i connect the load to [bms discharge], it’s not powering. in fact, look at the mobile app, says discharge is off:
so how the F do you turn the discharge circuit on? can’t find an option.
So you got the same exact as mine.
We’ll see if you open the app when you apply power/ ride it. Maybe it switches to discharge. I just don’t see any clear documentation about the B- C- P- everything is just guessing in other forums. The picture on the product page is not clear ether alone the fact that it’s not ilustrating the P- channel
I like that idea but the 60A is triple layer metall. That thing is thick. That’s why I had to Dremel of some of the fuse carrier. The more I get towards completion the tighter the fit gets… Need more room…waaaahhh
Someone got a CNC machine and wanna mil a Raptor 2.1 belly cover but a bit taller?
I noticed the 60a is 5mm thicker but I recon you can still do it.
You need to “adjust” the wireing on the back of the charge plug.
Cut out the metal plate under the bms and even the plastic backing of the enclosure if need be even take a couple of mm out of the deck. Easier than making another enclosure. And look more pro.
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I wish I had a garage side to all that grinding and cutting and dremeling on my balcony. Ok I will map out the BMS wires today. Noticed they are shorter than the OEM BS BMS. And I guess I gonna cut the area of the metal shield tray underneath. Should give me 2mm space.
I found some more information about the BMS inside a electronic bicycle forum
Now I just need to put positive charge 2 battery positiv and negativ charge to BMS C-.
Due to a issue with my fuse earlier I spot welded 4 strips of nickel direct to the fuse and can Canton tape and shrink tube the fuse directly to the wires I know that is unconvinced to replace but a way smaller form-factor.
It’s alive. Thanks to all of the people in the Battery Builders Club and in this forum.
Now I prob. end up cutting thru the plastic carrier into the lower deck to fit everything nicely. It would fit all in just like that but something tells me that the BMS aluminum heatsink plates are not in harmony with the main positive Battery wire. I set the smart BMS to static Ballance from charge Ballance.
Took some screenshots of the BMS configs I setup and the Logger status also a short video of the current state of the build. And yes I drove it like that with no cover on it just with some fibertape on it… Don’t judge me I am withdrawing… Btw. You can lock the BMS instantly via in-app button press which kills the power to the FocBox… They call it lock mode. Haha let me try that when my cousin wanna try next time.
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